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TR2/3/3A Temperature Gauge Rebuild TR3

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woody1091

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Does anyone have a recommendation for a temp gauge rebuider and anticipated cost for a TR3?

I decided to tackle a cosmetic restoration on my dashboard and instruments. Everything disassembled well until it came to the removing the nut holding in the capillary bulb for the temp instrument. I anticipated a problem and was not disappointed. The nut won't budge. I tried a flare wrench and putting a little heat on the thermostat housing then resorted to a vice grip with flats for use on a nut and still no success.It looks like the project is going to cost me a temp gauge. I have decided to move forward with a new wiring harness while I have everything apart. Possibly a thermo housing if I cannot salvage.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.
 
there are ways to replace the bulb as a DIY project. Kim (regularman) over on the Spridget forum is our guru for these things.

Here is a sample set of instruction

https://www.ply33.com/repair/tempgauge
 
Mo-Ma in NM is commonly regarded as best for gauge restoration, they do a lot of Pebble Beach cars and such, but sometimes get busy and are slow to turn them around. Last I heard, they charged about $130 for a capillary temp gauge, but it came back looking like new.
MO-MA
1321 2nd St NW
Albuquerque, NM 87102
(505) 766-6661
momanm@aol.com

There are other around, of course, that might be a little cheaper. Here's a couple that happen to be in my address book:
North Hollywood Speedometer & Clock Co.
6111 Lankershim Blvd.
North Hollywood, CA 91606
Phone 818-761-5136
Fax 818-761-4857
https://www.nhspeedometer.com/

West Valley Auto Electronics (was WV Instrument Specialists)
19314 Vanowen St.
Reseda, CA 91335
818-758-9500
https://www.westvalleyautoelectronics.com

Or, just a thought, early TR4 had a temp gauge that looked very similar to the TR3 gauge, but was electric. They can sometimes be found used for not too many $$$ and the sender screws right into the TR3 housing.
 
Mine came out so easy I thought that I must have done something wrong. But a while back I read someone post that the used blaster a couple of times a day for a week and the sucker finally gave up. You might give that a try.
 
IMG_0775.jpg
 
Steve, love that pic! I can recommend these guys: (thanks, Randall)
West Valley Auto Electronics
19314 Vanowen St.
Reseda, CA 91335
818-758-9500
https://www.westvalleyautoelectronics.com
Ask for Morris; he rebuilt mine for $120(?), 5 years ago, doing fine since...
BTW, your car looks just like mine, down to the seats......
 
ekamm said:
...I read someone post that the used blaster a couple of times a day for a week and the sucker finally gave up. You might give that a try.
Click to expand...

Possibly me. I knew that the day would come when I had to undo it so everytime I was under the bonnet I gave it a drop of PBlaster.

woody1091 said:
...It looks like the project is going to cost me a temp gauge...
Click to expand...

Before you do something rash -- some have resorted to decapitating the tstat housing to free the nut as that part is usually cheaper and easier to source.
 
When I was disassembling my 3, I had the same problem you are having. I used penetrants and vice grips and a week getting the bulb out of the t-stat housing. It finally let go. The (expensive to rebuild) temp gauge was not ruined, unless the totally bunged up hex on the bulb nut counts as ruination. The threads in the t-stat housing were a total loss however. Used T-stat housing on eBay: $20 - $30.
 
Steve:

I had the same problem you are having and ended up breaking mind off. I sent it down to MO-Ma in NM and it came back looking like a brand new gauge. This was last year. It cost me $ 180.00. I was very pleased with the end result.

Terry
 
Like the other guys here, I wound up sacrificing the thermostat housing; that nut was simply not going to release, after decades of being together. I, too, found a housing on eBay for $12.
 
Thank you for all your tips and resources. After reading I think I will attempt dissecting the housing.
 
Well it got pretty ugly. I dissected the housing carefully but when I tested the unit after it was out it did not function. I must have damaged the the bulb or tube. I sent it to MoMa in NM and it came back looking like brand new. I still have not put it back in because I decided to put a new wiring harness in while I was there but it is coming together.

IMG_0813Large.jpg


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IMG_0814Large.jpg
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Well, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but careful scrutiny of your photos has led me to the conclusion that the dissection was, indeed, difficult, and you need a new thermostat housing, too.
 
Ya JB definitely not going to save that one!
 
If you're buying a replacement, you might want to consider a later TR4 housing with the restrictor cast into the bypass pipe.
 
Peter,

I didn't know they did this on the later TR4/TR4A housing???? Does this mean that they did not come with the bellows thermostat that had the blocking plate?

Scott
 
HerronScott said:
Does this mean that they did not come with the bellows thermostat that had the blocking plate?
Click to expand...
Exactly.

Actually the factory listed the non-sleeved thermostat as an acceptable replacement for the earlier cars as well.
 
If you look into the bypass pipe on the thermo housing, the newer version will have the passage nearly closed except for a small rounded rectangle cast in the center of the pipe for flow.
 
Randall,

Thanks for refreshing my memory! I remember that thread now, but apparently it didn't sink in to the long term memory cells. :smile:

Scott
 
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