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Temp guage not working

Thanks Baz. I appreciate the offer and the opportunity. Gauges are an area where I really like to tinker. The dual gauge is one of the more interesting repairs and I certainly need more practice with it.
 
Baz,
I haven't read this thread too closely, but first thing you need to do is disconnect the battery since you will be running the line near exposed hot wires. Patience would be the key. My original was broken when I became impatient trying to get my defroster tube reinstalled.
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

I've just got the new dual gauge in, and what a bear it was...Do I, Should I put some PTFE tape, or some thread lube around the bulb end into the block?
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Thought the bulb end went in the radiator??
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Logically, because the 'stat can close off circulation to the radiator, you'd think that the bulb should go into the block which always has the useful information in regards to temperature.

Ben
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Put some never seize on the threads.
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Thanks, it's a winner, works a treat......
Temp was normal with a brief drive, when I shut the engine off, the temp rose to a about 3/4. Is that just a side effect of no fan/no passing air and is it normal, or is there an underlying reason for post use heat?
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Well I'll be, learned something today. Thanks
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Jack, thank you. I'm learning a ton off people like yourself each day. In the bugeye, the temp sender is on the radiator, just by the top hose, a small variance.
I'm glad that job is over. Jeff, you're a star.
 
I repaired a TR3 gauge using the site that dklawson cited. I wrote about it in this thread over in the Triumph forum. I have an attachment there that shows the gauge in boiling water registering exactly 212 degs. It's a very doable procedure. The biggest problem is making the splice to join the donor tube and the short piece sticking out of the back of the gauge. Very often, the newer donor gauges have a smaller diameter then the older gauges. Fortunately, I have access to a lathe at work and made one from a small piece of brass. The link mentions this problem and what can be used. Most auto parts stores like Pep Boys have capillary temp gauges for less then $20 which would make a good donor. Try and find one with the same size fitting as your original gauge, but if you have to, you can always slip your original fitting on the tube when you cut it.

If the original gauge was working correctly before it lost it's ether, calibration should be unneccesary. If it registers 212 in the boiling water after repair, it should be OK through the rest of the range. Of course, if you have another thermometer to put in the water as you heat it up, you can compare the readings.
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Baz, the rise in temp post shutdown is normal. There's no coolant flow through the radiator, so the residual heat transfers directly to the stagnant coolant, heating it faster than it can dissipate through the iron of the engine. Not to worry.
A couple of years ago, I was racing a Spit, and had two races about 20 minutes apart. I had an overtemp warning light on the thing, and when I shut it down after the first race, it would heat soak to the point of turning the light on. The switch wouldn't reset itself until the temp dropped below about 180, so, as 195 was the normal operating temperature, I would have to drive the second race with the light on, even though the temp was perfectly normal. Annoying, to say the least.
Jeff
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Cheers for the encouragement Jeff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif, was a PITA but so relieved to get it done, wife was a major help too.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

What gave you problems? Did you get your replacement gauge from APT instruments? I repaired mine, but if my repair fails then I'll need to replace with a new gauge.
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

I bought the car with the temp not working, oil pressure was fine. I have two different manuals at home that both said the sender was filled with mercury (discovered later that this isn't the case), and if not reading, needed a complete replacement. I had to snip the (old) sender to get it out through the grommet and nothing came out, I was expecting a fluid of some sort.
I got a smiths from VB and it works better than I expected because now my oil pressure is stable (60-70 instead of 80+)
I will be getting an anologue clock from APT, I used VB because I had an existing order going on.
Problem now, as pointed out by the wife, is that I have a shiny new gauge in the dash among some 'worn' looking ones. Should I get new gauges all round, or dirty up the new one? :smile:
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

You might be surprised how well the old ones clean up! I removed all of mine and cleaned them and painted the inside (in an effort to getbetter viewing at night).
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

Did the vicky brit one have C-N-H, or actual numbers?
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

[ QUOTE ]
Should I get new gauges all round, or dirty up the new one? :smile:

[/ QUOTE ]

Baz, wait until the skin grows back on your hands before you make any decisions! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

[ QUOTE ]
wait until the skin grows back on your hands before you make any decisions!

[/ QUOTE ]

It's my shoulders and hips that hurt! I should've followed your advice to the letter and taken the seat out.

VB has CNH and #'s, but also try Gauge Guys
 
Re: Temp guage not working HELP

SM 48 page 71 in the VB catologue. Comes with glass, bezel and rubber ring. I got the CNH due to my reliance on centigrade.
 
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