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Temp Gauge

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DNK

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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Been putting some miles on the Wedge lately. Had ,what I thought, was a problem. As I drove from a cold start it would heat up to just past 1/2 way on the gauge. After 15 minutes the temp would climb to almost the H and pause for a few seconds or so and slowly drop back.
Now as I have been putting longer trips under my belt it does this about every 10 minutes or so.
I think I figured out what was going on. I figure the stat is prolly about a 190* or so. As it sits about a little past half it closes down then the gauge moves, it opens up and drops to about half again. On the last 50 mile freeway drive it was a 10 minute cycle or so.
 
Sticking t-stat.
I personally, on a non-emission vehicle, run a 190.

180 is more than enough.

MAKE SURE you drill a 1/8" hole in the housing, not the moving portion.

Combustion gasses (aluminum porosity) can do that, too, to a certain extent.
The hole won't affect heating, and will eliminate the issue.

Dave
 
Remember Dave, It's a fuely motor. Needs that warmer stat. factory spec is 190*
 
You should check to make sure that the gauge is reading correctly. If memory serves, half way should be about 190. Check with a thermometer and move the needle accordingly to match up. The needle is mounted on a pin and over time it migrate out of true. Air pockets are also a big problem that cause wild temp swings.
 
When it gets to the top of the rise before it falls it is about 202 or so ,according to my computer. Runs about 180-185 at normal cruise when the stat isn't closing down
 
I should have just changed the sucker when I did my top end last year. DOH!
 
Looked at the local parts stores websites and they don't show 190* just 180* or 195*. The 195* OK?
 
Went to my NAPA I usually go to. They of course don't show a 190 for it. They wouldn't even talk about cross referencing. So I went to my other NAPA. He's an old racer. Took him about 10 seconds to find the 190 I wanted.
Of course, the whole 25 minutes I was in the car the temp gauge didn't move.
cars are scary!
grin.gif
 
The 190 is emissions, to make the TVS units operate at the Federal level.
Also, lights the cats easier.

Now, I do believe you have removed the TVS's, the EGR, the cats, and all that other stuff, right?

The only other thing is WT sensor to the confuser, and don't you have a programmable confuser?
 
Here's a snap shot of the program that show's the WT. This as you can see was last month one file change ago.

FriNoon.jpg



Here's last week at one of the peak temp climbs
AUG23.jpg
 
So, I'm not seeing a coolant reading.

Intake Air temp, Idle air speed control, spark, TPS...
 
Ah, EWng.

204?

One of the reasons I HATE 190 and 195's is by the time the gauge starts climbing, you can't modify your driving to keep it down.

Like, climbing out of Bakersfield in August.

Back off a bit, you can keep it from never-never land.

In fact, my flatmotors use 160's in summer.

What is the setting for "closed loop" as far as engine coolant temperature?
 
Not sure I know what you mean by Close loop setting.
OH, you mean what's the temp for open to closed?
On the last file it was 116.6* to get to closed loop
While doing some research on youe question
<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">Contrary to popular belief, closed loop operation is attained when engine coolant temperature
reaches 104°F and exhaust gas temperature reaches 600°F. On a cold engine, this occurs
within five minutes of normal driving. Therefore, there is no concern about attaining closed
loop operation, even with a 160°F thermostat.</span></span>


Also found something about 170 working with FI
 
Like I said....

The 190 is for the TVS (Temperature Vacuum Switches) and things like that.

I was asking what the setting in on your computer for temperature to enter closed loop?

104 is factory....

Just pitch that 190.
 
The ECM tuner prefers a 190* stat. He said a 180* is OK, but would prefer a 190*.

I listed before what the last Closed loop start temp was. The file before that was 132*
 
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