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Temp gauge goes off the scale
- Thread starter tomgt6
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Hmm, let's see if this works:
...
Not so much, so try this:
https://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260...elandtemp-1.jpg
https://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260...landtempgau.jpg
...
Not so much, so try this:
https://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260...elandtemp-1.jpg
https://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260...landtempgau.jpg
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Hmmm...there's at least one typo in that chart! Note that the Smiths sender numbers are the same for both 1200 and Sports Six; however, the one for 1200 is listed as 12v and that for the Sports Six is listed at 10v and shows the same Triumph part number as that for the early Spitfire!
Again, it's something I'd have to research, as I don't think the early Sports Six had the stabilizer?
Again, it's something I'd have to research, as I don't think the early Sports Six had the stabilizer?
Well, the only thing I got to last night was to hold the sending until wire in the air and it didn't change. So if I understand this correctly I should try and ground it and see if the gauge goes to cold. I do think it is a thin needle but I will have to look again. How knows anymore about this car.
I mean I have found that the wiring in it was a bunch of 4 ft lengths of wire put together. So rewired whole car. The frame, engine and front end are a mk1, the tub a mk2 and now that the engine went out I just put a 1300 mk3 engine in it. So anything is possible with this car.
I mean I have found that the wiring in it was a bunch of 4 ft lengths of wire put together. So rewired whole car. The frame, engine and front end are a mk1, the tub a mk2 and now that the engine went out I just put a 1300 mk3 engine in it. So anything is possible with this car.
dklawson
Yoda
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It really is important to start by determining which gauge type you have. You didn't mention whether the needle pegs immediately when you turn the ignition key or does it slowly climb? If the needle pegs as soon as you turn the key, it's an early gauge. If the needle climbs slowly it's a later gauge system with the stabilizer. Having a stabilizer installed on an early gauge will not slow its response time so you cannot go by the physical presence of the stabilizer. As you pointed out, these cars can be a compilation of many parts from different eras.
If you determine this is an early gauge, take a look at the MGA-Guru site that I mentioned earlier. You will not find a better explanation of how the early gauges and gauge system work. Once you understand how the early gauges work it's much easier to troubleshoot them.
https://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm
It's worth mentioning that if it IS an early gauge and you DO have the right sender, you could have a gauge with bad windings, a lost earth connection, or an internal coil that has slipped out of position.
Randall, that's a great chart even if it does potentially have errors as Andy noted. I'll print out a copy of it for my files. Thanks also for posting the tech bulletins. I will keep hard copies of them as well.
If you determine this is an early gauge, take a look at the MGA-Guru site that I mentioned earlier. You will not find a better explanation of how the early gauges and gauge system work. Once you understand how the early gauges work it's much easier to troubleshoot them.
https://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm
It's worth mentioning that if it IS an early gauge and you DO have the right sender, you could have a gauge with bad windings, a lost earth connection, or an internal coil that has slipped out of position.
Randall, that's a great chart even if it does potentially have errors as Andy noted. I'll print out a copy of it for my files. Thanks also for posting the tech bulletins. I will keep hard copies of them as well.
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Right; pretty much instantaneous!tomgt6 said:
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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No need, IMO. Since the gauge takes several seconds to swing, it is clearly a "hot wire" movement (which I think we all agree is correct for your car). So the fact it still swings with the wire disconnected indicates that current is flowing through the hot wire and to ground somewhere; so either the wire is shorted to ground or the gauge is internally shorted.tomgt6 said:
The next step IMO would be to disconnect the wire between the gauge & sender at the gauge (green/blue wire, originally) and check again. If the gauge still deflects, the short is inside. Otherwise, the wire is shorted.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I don't know, Andy, never got that far with mine. But I vaguely recall that there were two different versions of the fuel gauge movmement (which unlike the Triumph sports cars, was integrated in the speedometer); and the difference may have been 10v/12v operation.Andrew Mace said:
dklawson
Yoda
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The Sports Six speedometers I've seen all have the same "type" of fuel gauge insert as the Mini and the Morris Minor.
I agree with Randall and Andy, the 3-5 second climb rate indicates your temp gauge is the later type that uses the stabilizer and you should follow Randall's advice on troubleshooting.
When we talk about the early gauge pegging the needle immediately when the key is turned, there really is no better way to describe it. The needle moves "lightning fast" from its rest position to the top of the scale. There is no slow needle movement for it like the bimetallic gauges have.
I agree with Randall and Andy, the 3-5 second climb rate indicates your temp gauge is the later type that uses the stabilizer and you should follow Randall's advice on troubleshooting.
When we talk about the early gauge pegging the needle immediately when the key is turned, there really is no better way to describe it. The needle moves "lightning fast" from its rest position to the top of the scale. There is no slow needle movement for it like the bimetallic gauges have.