Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Hey Guest! British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
**Upgrade Now** (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Hydraulic lines should be flare fittings. They seal on a flare on the tube not the threads that holds the tube in place. These threads are straight cut, not tapered like NPT. Putting teflon on the threads does nothing but look bad. It the connection leaks look at the flare on the end of the line or in the fitting it screws into for the problem. They should not be over tightened or the flared tubing will crack
Just seemed they unscrewed too easily. But then again, I did notice a couple of the pedal box securing bolts were missing (1 under the dash and 1 outboard rear) and my clutch master rod had no clevis pin (nut and bolt instead) so it appears that this has been attacked before in the past.
The flares look good, so I'll take that advice, thank you Tony / Gerry.
They should unscrew easily after the first turn or so. If they don't then the threads on one side or the other may be buggered and waiting to fail completely
Yep, if those things are hard to turn either the threads are bad or theres some gunk in between the pipe & the nut...I always clean my pipes real good before reattaching...I have had them where the nut is frozen to the pipe with rust & crud.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.