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Technical Report: Bronze Spring Bushes

Re: Technical Report: Bronze Rear Spring Bushes

Maybe the difference is if you use the stock parts but do a polishing with 800 sanding paper as I did.
 
Re: Technical Report: Bronze Rear Spring Bushes

Still haven't got it apart (no time). So I haven't had a look yet. The one thing I am reasonably sure of: as tight as the pin is, in the bushing, there won't be much grease in there.
 
Got some time to work this evening. Pulled the wing, then twisted and yanked with what I had. I gave up early -- then got out the angle grinder. (Spring shackles don't really cost <span style="font-style: italic">that</span> much.) I split the head of the pin and ground a slot almost through the shackle strap. Broke off the strap and got out the GREAT BIG Vice-Grip (TM) to grab what was left of the shackle pin. Then I wiggled-and-cursed-and-pried-and wiggled --- and it came out.

I've ordered a new shackle assembly. (And a pair of front shocks, while I'm at it -- I think I need 'em.)

When all that gets here, I am going to reassemble it as-is. I reamed-out the bushing, so a healthy dose of grease can fit in with the pin. I plan to use <span style="font-style: italic">Really Good</span> grease (TM).
 
I am glad you finally got back to ground zero...I felt your pain following your experience. I hate to ask a silly question, but I am not familiar with the shackles you used...how are they different from the stock set up?

John
 
John --
It's not the shackles that are different. In fact they are (were) probably original 1959 shackles. One of them needed to be destroyed in the removal process.

The mod I installed is the "Rear Spring Locator" kit -- manufactured by Joe Alexander and available lots of places. Instead of two "soft" bushes in each eye -- originally rubber, now, often replaced with polyurethane -- the kit employs a single bronze bush through the spring eye and the frame eye -- through which the shackle pins are installed.

The bronze bushings were a tight fit in my frame eyes. One of them (left side) needed to be reamed after installation for the shackle pin to even get into it. The other one "seemed" to be OK. That's the one that froze. It is now reamed like the other. They need to be a slightly sloppy fit so you can get lots of grease in there with with the pin.

One more time -- just for clarity. The rubber or poly bushings fail by disintegration. If you get a problem back there, it will come apart as it is supposed to. This bronze bushing failed by becoming too tight on the pin, requiring a lot of extra effort to get it apart for repair. If I wanted to get the bushing out of the frame eye, at this point (body on the frame), I would HAVE TO remove the rear wing and drive it out towards the center of the car, cutting it off as it emerged from the eye, as there is insufficient room for the whole thing to come out of there in one piece. Later for that. I'm going to try it one more time with the increased clearance for the shackle pin. If I have to go through this again, though, then out they will come!
 
Moseso said:
If I wanted to get the bushing out of the frame eye, at this point (body on the frame), I would HAVE TO remove the rear wing and drive it out towards the center of the car,
I'll bet you could tap the center bore, and pull it out with a chunk of threaded rod and some spacers. Another approach would be to drill it out; the relatively soft bronze should cut easily.
 
You are the ideal "lazy man," Randall. As in the wise adage: "If you have a difficult project, assign it to a lazy person. That person will find an easier way to do it."

I think the wing still has to come off to drill it out. But the tap-it-and-pull-it method <span style="font-style: italic">just might</span> be doable "under cover." Getting something to bear on the eye, yet allow the bushing through, might be the most difficult part of making the puller.

Now you've got <span style="font-style: italic">ME</span> thinking... A 3' piece of 1/2" all-thread, some washers, a pair of acorn nuts and a 6" piece of 3/4" pipe = a proper slide-hammer puller for the job. Wing removal required -- but I've already found out that's not really such an onerous job.
 
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