T-Series TD Handling Problem

[Racerguy]

Total recent restoration of '51 TD handling problem: The car wanders when trying to go straight, as if there was too much toe-out. I have pulled in both tie rods as far as possible to get some toe-in. I have not had the opportunity to get a real alignment check. Would radial tires cause this? MGB with identical suspension does not care if it has radials so why would a TD? Anybody experienced this problem? Suspension is all newly rebuilt. Does the steering rack (not rebuilt) need a rebuild? If so why?

 

[Brinkerhoff]

You are sure the LH and RH swivel pins with the steering arms are not switched around?

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Or just the steering arms are swapped in the swivel pins perhaps. I'm trying to think back 30 yrs. but I did this once. If assembled correctly you can use bright orange construction string and a tape measure to do a basic alignment.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Or maybe you have the bottom trunnions turned out.

 

[Sarastro]

If you don't have a proper wheel alignment, it's no great surprise that the car doesn't handle well. I also think it's likely that you have something assembled wrong; you should have plenty of adjustment room on the tie rod.

 

[PAUL161]

Did you put new tie rod ends on the car? Some of the new ones are longer than the originals and you can not get the proper toe in adjustment with them. Just sayin. PJ

 

[LarryK]

All the above. 1 question: If restoring car why not rebuild rack??

 

[Racerguy]

I've done that on MGBs several times and it becomes very obvious when you try to put the hubs on.

 

[Racerguy]

Nothing appeared to be wrong with it before restoration or even now.

 

[Racerguy]

Yes I put new tie rod ends on. Not sure I have the old ones anymore.

 

[Racerguy]

That's what mine looks like.

 

[Racerguy]

The tie rods are the same size as the old ones.
The swivel pins are in correctly.
The steering arms are in correctly.
The rear wheel to front wheel is the same on both sides (94")
I have not taken it to a alignment shop as I am still in the shakedown phase and I don't want to drive it 15 miles just yet.
I have used the bright orange string method and it did not reveal a major problem but you can't get totally precise toe angles with it.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

If you set the car straight ahead you can set the toe with a steel tape measuring behind the wheels , then in front of them, from the same place on the tire of course. Its crude yes , but careful work can get it close so you have some toe in.

 

[PAUL161]

About 1/8th inch toe in should solve your problem. That's what I have my TF set at and it tracks perfectly. PJ

 

[JPSmit]

Just a thought, how much air do you have in the tires? I wonder if the wrong pressure could cause this?

 

[PAUL161]

JP, I run 30 lbs front and back. Now saying that, my TF steers a slightly heavy also, but I'm assuming that's because it's still a little tight from rebuilding. I use 90W oil in it also. There is "0" play in the rack, like steering a go cart.:highly_amused: PJ

 

[Sarastro]

If everything is assembled right, you should be able to get a decent alignment with two tape measures, as long as you have a flat surface to park the car. I do this with my TD and my 67 Porsche; I use two plumb bobs over the tires, in a narrow tread groove.

When the wheels are aligned, there should be plenty of threads visible on the tie rod and you should be able to get plenty of toe in. I like Paul's suggestion of an eighth inch of toe in; that might be all you need to solve the problem. So much of this depends on the differences between modern tires and the ones for which the original specs were developed, so you may have to experiment a bit.