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Synthetic oil ?

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I'm going to try that as well (if I can get it up here). My thinking is that it certainly can't hurt the engine, and if it starts to leak I'll switch back to the dino oil. Can't hurt.
 
The new Rotella does not have the level of ZDDP that the old Rotella had. You can tell the new by the 3 interconnected circles on the label. They form a triangle shape. Also by the designation in the symbol on the back, although I can't recall the current designations off the top of my head. As I recall the diesel oild were tha last to drop the level of ZDDP. But they did drop it very low just like the other major brands.
As someone mentioned above Valvoline Raceing oil still maintains a high, by modern standards, level of ZDDP. Brad Penn oil is also supposed to have higher levels as well as Redline.
Everything I've read indicates that breakin of a new cam is critical. This is when the ZDDP is a must. After breakin you can use regular oil, be it synthetic or dino. This falls right in line with the recommendation from Paul's mechanic.
I switched to synthetic on some of my older cars. I saw no increase in consumption. They did not leak before or after the change. I also switched to Mobil 1 Automatic trans fluid and differential fluid. No leakage. I switched my 19 year old riding mower, no issues. The TR6 leaked before I switched and continues to leak. One of these days I will replace the front seals and gaskets and add one of those steel sealing blocks.
When I do spill some Mobil 1 while changing the oil. It cleans up with mineral spirits. Pour some mineral spirits on the oil and it will evaporate with the spirits. On bigger spills work the mineral spirits in with a broom and let it evaporate.
A guy at work told me he won't use Mobil 1 because his lawn mower smoked and leaked like crazy when he put some in. After a few questions he admitted the mower was worn out, he overfilled it and used much lighter oil than called for. Not a valid condemnation by any means.
My advice is to try it and draw your own conclusions. Electronic ignitions, synthetic oils, silicone brake fluid, ceramic coatings, poly bushings, roller rockers, GP2, GP3, TRF, VB, Chevy, Ford, Triumph, MG ........
 
Bill;
I really like Syntec. I've used it in my Honda Accord since new.
It's a 2005 V6 with approx. 85K miles (doing the metric to miles conversion) Never had a leak or used a drop.

Casey;
Have you tried CTC for Syntec? I get mine there in Ontario.

Dave :savewave:
 
Bob,

The cases that I have are of the old formulation of two years ago that has the high ZDDP. I didn't know it was lowered, as I bought this when I began picking up parts for the engine build back then. I also have a case of the Moss Classic car oil to use as well as the Castrol Synthetic for flat tappet to try, so I'm good for a few years with the miles that I drive. Those are both designed for flat tappets and have high levels of ZDDP.
 
Now having the lower concentrations of ZDDP,
is the Castro Syntec as reliable?

I won't be doing the change over till the weekend, so the more info I can get the better....
 
Bill,

The Syntec still has the proper amount of ZDDP as far as I know. It is not made for new cars, but specifically for older non-catalytic converter cars. That's the only reason that they lower it.

EDIT: Bill, make sure you get exactly what I have pictured below. There is NO drop in that particular version of the Syntec.

Castrol Syntec High Zinc Formula for Classic Cars
 

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Hi Dave,yes we have CTC here and they carry Syntec,just never had a reason to change.CTC also carries Mobile 1 and that's what I've been using in all my vehicles,for no particular reason other than when out on the road I find Mobile 1 some what easier to get. Walmart, Kmart and many other "box"type stores carry mobile 1 synthetic.
I had the pan off a few years back,new main and rod bearings in hand thinking that after 50000 plus miles it might be a good idea to freshen it up,turned out to be a waste of time. Bearings had no measurable wear.I put the bearings back ona shelf and I'll run her another 50000
If I crater the motor and I can prove it was an oil related problem,I'll definitly report it here with pics. :yesnod:
 
Paul,

I bought 3 or 4 cases of the old Rotella when I found out they were changing the formula. One of these days I'll get to work on my TVR. I plan to use some of the Rotella when I break in that engine.

I haven't seen the previous version of Rotella on the shelves in the usual stores for awhile. It was available in 5 gallon buckets. If there is a Tractor Supply store or a Truck stop nearby you may still be able to find some in bulk.

I did see a commercial or an ad recently for some stuff in a bottle with ZINC in very large letters and substutite in much smaller letters. It may have been an O'Rielley's ad. I don't know what the stuff is, but I wouldn't trust my engine to it. I'm sure there are unscrupulous (sp?) vendors out there who are capitalizing on our concern about the loss of zinc.

BOBH
 
Bob,

I also bought several bottle of the ZDDP from Moss for the future.

I did get my oil from a Diesel truck stop. I'll have to see if he has anymore next time I go by. Thanks for letting me know about the change
 
synthetic flows better when cold, is more tolerant to heat, cleaner, more consistent. you can't break in an engine on it because it doesn't allow enough wear for parts to mate (what does that tell you?). zinc is required in our engines. Racing oil does not have detergents (not required because you change it after every race). Leaks are not CAUSED by the oil unless the oil breaks down the seals (unlikely). You should still change you oil filter after 3-5k with synthetic but not change the oil till 10-15k (economics)and not required. You should run "thinner" oil in winter or cold weather. you should change your oil if your car sat all winter before you run it in the spring. Cold start with poor flow is considered the major source of wear in an engine.If i ran 20-50 i would want an oil heater in my pan to pre-heat the oil before start up.
IMHO
Rob
 
It might be kind of interesting to make a poll of this subject to see what people are using. My expertise ends at posting a picture.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]If i ran 20-50 i would want an oil heater in my pan to pre-heat the oil before start up[/QUOTE]I have decided that I just don't run my car from November until April, (unless it's warmer than normal), so that won't apply to me.
 
Brosky said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]If i ran 20-50 i would want an oil heater in my pan to pre-heat the oil before start up
Click to expand...
I have decided that I just don't run my car from November until April, (unless it's warmer than normal), so that won't apply to me. [/QUOTE]


Gimme a break!

my 81' 340d never even need a oil heater & that had mud for oil!
 
"Humanoid" thanks, bobistheoilguy.com ,what a great site! looks like some of the diesel oils and motorcycle oils have "the right stuff". Lots of zinc/phosphate.
R
 
some synthetic notables with over 1200 ppm zinc:
royal purple: max cycle 10w-40
Amsoil: ACD 10w-30/sae 30 diesel
Amsoil: 15w-40 diesel
 
Crisis;

Yes CTC is Canadian Tire Corporation.
You know, the guys who give away that funny money you can use on foreign
vacations (oops, I said that out loud didn't I)
Tell those guys in the 'Peg to get ya what you want pronto

Dave :thumbsup:
 
wow, red line diesel 15w-40 over 2000ppm zinc, and some tin. I am so glad there are not catalytic converters on diesels.(not that they would work anyway)
royal purple xpr around 1800 ppm zinc.
for comparison, many "regular" oils are 800ppm zinc and less, down to 400 or so.
R
 
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