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TR2/3/3A Synchro in a non synchro?

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HighAltitudeTR3

HighAltitudeTR3

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Is it possible to just add/swap a synchro 1st gear to my tr? I know you can swap out the whole gear box, I have a buddy who’s done that, but what about the just the gear?
 
No. The case has to be designed for it, along with the input shaft, countershaft, reverse gear, and 1st gear.
 
Any tranny from the TR4 on will have the synchro installed. You could swap your OD onto the new box, but that would take a 4 synchro OD mainshaft...which is pretty hard to find. Best to just keep your eye out for an OD 4 synchro box.
 
I’ll keep an eye out. Definitely don’t want to get rid of my overdrive, might be my favorite thing about driving it.
 
Just learn to drive the 3-synchro! If you really have to squeal the tires from a rolling stop, you can learn to double-clutch into 1st. But I found it a lot simpler to just either stop or take off in 2nd gear. (I learned to drive in a car without synchro on 1st, so it just seems 'normal' to me.)

A stock TR3 engine in good tune should be able to pull smoothly from about 4 mph in 2nd gear; and you can slip the clutch to cover the range from 0 to 4.
 
That’s what I’ll probably stick to... i was just swapping through the moss catalog and saw the 1st gear synchro listed in the non synchro photo and thought it was an “easy swap”.

I do have to work on my double clutching...
 
I bet Randall learned his clutching on old 8N ford tractors with no synchros at all. Double clutching those envolves hands and feet!
 
I think 1st gear synchro is over rated. There is a distinctive sound of the 3 synchro boxes that is part of the TR3 experience. Very distinctive when a tooth is missing on 1st gear.
Berry
 
Agree with Berry and others. The PO put a TR4 overdrive transmission in my TR3. I love the OD but I don't think I've ever put the thing into 1st when rolling. It's a non issue, IMO. Tom
 
I think half the time I take off from a start, I’m in second gear. I would kill for an overdrive gearbox, though!
 
CJD said:
I bet Randall learned his clutching on old 8N ford tractors with no synchros at all. Double clutching those envolves hands and feet!
Click to expand...
Nope, never tried to double-clutch a tractor; and my grandfather used Deere tractors instead of Ford's (illegal) copy of Harry Ferguson's tractor.

But what I did learn was how to start out in a taller gear, with a heavy load and not much power on tap. 28 hp will actually move 10 tons of hay in road gear; if you know how. I looked up the specs just for fun; top gear on that tractor was 10 mph at 1250 rpm engine speed. Not all that different than 2nd gear on a TR3 (10 mph at 1170 rpm).

Should've taken a picture of it: My grandfather bought that Deere model 50 the year I was born, and my cousin still uses it to farm with! I was out there a few months ago, and he was hauling corn with it (not 10 tons worth, though, and probably not in 6th gear). It's been repainted a few times, repaired when necessary of course, but never "restored".
 
Apologize for hijacking your post but couldn't resist. Here's my 1950 something John Deere 420 track loader. I made my 900 foot driveway, among other things with it. 2 cylinders, 2 liters, no water pump and heavy. I bought it when I built my house a bit over 25 years ago. In low gear and full throttle (1800 rpm) it's forward progress was extremely slow but almost unstoppable. I had it for 25 years before I sold it in a weak moment (for domestic tranquility) 5 years ago in favor of a newer Kubota that looks a bit more presentable but is toy in comparison.
tractor.jpg
 
I'm with Randal about learning to drive the 1st gear non synchro tranny. I recently installed a TR6 overdrive tranny in my TR3. I was looking for a non synchro tranny for 3 to 4 years before I settled for a fully synchronized Tr6 transmission. Everyone thought I was crazy wanting a non synchro tranny but after driving the car for 30+ years you become one with the car. While coming to a stop and as I was creeping forward with the clutch in I'd drop into 2nd and slowly bring it into first feeling for those teeth to mesh and there is nothing like that. I actually miss the feeling now. If I have to sit there for a while I'd put it into neutral with the clutch out and when the light turns green I drop back into 2nd and forward into 1st. Worked every time. Where were you when I was looking for a TR3 overdrive.
 
Funny thing about the 3 synchro boxes. They used large diameter full complement loose needles in the countershaft gear and never had (AFIK) problems. The caged bearings used in the TR6 transmissions are known for their self destruction. Maybe the increased torque of the 6cyl engines is a factor.
Berry
 
I see there are new counter shaft gears available for TR6 that accepts 2 rear bearings on he counter shaft so it would carry twice the load. Spread the load out and less wear. I'm thinking the original gears can be bored to accept two bearings?
 
I saw those in the Moss catalog at $400+. The bore on the original gears are quite hard, maybe from work hardening. I managed to machine one on my lathe using carbide tooling and the slowest speed, but a shop with an internal grinder would be a better choice. I think hard acceleration in the lower gears causes most of the problems with the rear countershaft bearing.
Berry
Got_All_4 said:
I see there are new counter shaft gears available for TR6 that accepts 2 rear bearings on he counter shaft so it would carry twice the load. Spread the load out and less wear. I'm thinking the original gears can be bored to accept two bearings?
Click to expand...
 
IIRC, Bob Schaller suggested replacing them with solid bushings. He claimed they lasted much longer, and could carry greater loads.
 
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