Swivel arms/Axel Stubs

[Nunyas]

Ok, so the swivel axels that came with my car aren't in as good of a condition as I thought they were when I replaced the front end bushings. I just recieved shippment of a pair of used swivel axels to play around with and replace my old ones. My initial inspection shows me that everything moves freely, and there's no movements in the wrong direction. Even so, I feel these things will need a severe cleaning, and possibly lower trunion rebuild... although, the lower trunion seems to be good. Anyways, is it the lower trunion that needs to be "reamed" to the correct size? Or is it a simple matter of pulling out the old junk, cleaning it up, and putting in the new junk? I'm just curious how much effort I'm going to end up putting into these before putting them into service... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[DrEntropy]

If they've been on a car it's likely they're already sized correctly. Did you get the entire assemblies? Kingpins and stub axles? There are three bushings in each assembly: lower trunion (short horizontal one), and two uppers (vertical and longer). If replaced with new ones they all need to be reamed to size. The uppers should actually be "align bored" to keep them on kingpin centre. The units usually wear prematurely due to lack of lubricant (P.M.). Most common wear is with the lower unit: the thru bolt will sieze and "wallow out" the hole in the A-arm(s). If you're about to put effort into these units, FWIW: RESPECT the coil spring. There is enough work involved I'd recommend bushing replacement/reaming, NEW bottom thru bolts, seals and spacers/washers. Check the a-arm s for ovality at the thru bolt, and consider all new urethane bushings for the arms. Better to do it one time right than have to take them apart again to re-do that which was not done the first time. It ~can~ be done without a spring compressor, with the car on jackstands under the frame rails but requires a good floor jack. By removing the bump-stop rubbers and allowing full droop of the suspension the spring is ~nearly~ at full length and may be removed by supporting it from the underside with the floor jack, slack off the nuts for the arms at both ends and unbolt the spring platform from the a-arms. Remove the outer two bolts first and use the jack to get the spring platform resting squarely in the jack pad, then remove the back two bolts. Lower the jack slowly and the spring will go to "relaxed" state. This takes effort, patience and it's dangerous: The spring can hurt you or the car if it gets away. Try to plan ahead (gather up as many new parts as you can) as this job will take the better part of two days' work the first time.

HTH

 

[Nunyas]

Well, I've already had the front end apart once. I'm familiar with disassembling the bigger parts and replacing the spring, spring pan, and lower wishbones. I haven't disassembled the swivel axels though. I did get full units (King-Pins, stub axels, etc.). I was mainly wondering how big of a project the lower trunions might be. Since they seem to be in pretty good shape, I may just get a pair of lower trunion kits and a pair of upper fulcrum pin kits. Then test fit the new pins/bolts (and poly bushes for the upper fulcrum) into the assembly, and if it's still tight but free moving just go with that. Better to be over prepared expecting the worst when approaching used parts... ya know?

A side note: these swivel axel assemblies are some heavy chunks of iron... I've replaced spindles on trucks that I've had in the past, but those probably weighed about half as much as these things on the 'B...

 

[DrEntropy]

The trunion kit is easy enuff, since you'll be there anyway when pulling the pins. Good plan.

Stout li'l cars. It's the reason we can still find 'em; they were built to last. Much more rugged than the "throw away" stamp-'em-out junk being built today.