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Switched from Redline to Brad Penn

SkinnedKnuckles

Jedi Trainee
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First off - both oils are very good imo. I only present this as an observation.
I've used Redline 15w-50 for 5 or 6 years. I change oil at about 10k mile intervals. When it came time for the latest change I kinda choked at the ~$11/qt figure (+ shipping) - with a few extra qts it was going to be well over $100. Someone brought up the Brad Penn oil - about half the cost of Redline, plus extra zddp. So that's what I went for.

The observation is that the synthetic Redline has a much flatter viscosity curve with temperature - exactly what they claim. Cold start-up pressures were about 75 psi, warm pressure at 2000 to 2500 rpm was roughly 60 psi, and idle was in the 30-40 range.

Brad Penn starts out really thick - over 75 psi, and could easily hit 100 psi if you give rev's too early. When it's warm it settles out at 50 psi in the 2000-2500 range, and gives and idle pressure of 20 psi, I'd say.

I'm not suggesting any problem at all. Just thought it was interesting how different oil types behave and decided to pass it on.
 

glemon

Yoda
Country flag
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I have Brad Penn in my car it does the same thing, very high pressure on start up, about 80 pounds, settles down when warm to more normal readings as you cited, I though I had rebuilt my motor to super tight tolerences, these forums are great for sharing tidbits of info like this.
 

poolboy

Yoda
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As soon as this engine is broke in, I'm going to use Brad Penn 20w-50. Thanks for the info. I'll be looking for that.
I've got a little over 500 miles on the engine as of this morning and will change to 15w-40 Rotella T for the next 1000, then the Brad Pitt//err Penn.
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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I just switched over the TR8 to Brad Penn, at Woody's recommendation. The TR6 is good until next fall and I've got a case of Moss Classic oil for after that.
 

Minesweeper

Senior Member
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Brosky said:
I just switched over the TR8 to Brad Penn, at Woody's recommendation. The TR6 is good until next fall and I've got a case of Moss Classic oil for after that.

Paul -- as a western Penna native, I'm surprised that you weren't already a Brad Penn guy!

Scott
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
Offline
Scott,

When we raced back in PA, we ran nothing but Kendall. Now I guess that the Brad Penn oil was originally Kendall, or something like that.

Mickey was using VR1 after the rebuild and Woody said that I should go to BP, so I did. Nothing wrong with the VR1, he just like the BP better.

I went on a little oil buying spree a year or so ago and ended up with a case of the the Moss Classic Car motor oil and I still have six quarts of the original oil that I used for break in (Rotella Triple T), which is diesel oil loaded with ZDDP and six quarts of Castrol Syntec waiting to go in after that. So the TR6 is good through 2012.
 

vettedog72

Jedi Knight
Offline
Brad Penn sure does have some convincing advertisements. But after your cold weather start up pressures and the prices of the Redline I'm afraid I will keep looking. The Rotila just may be the line I need. Your pressure comp's are information worth knowing and unpublished else where. Thanks

I recall some problems with diesel oil as having too much detergent because detergent replaces lubricating molecules so the more detergent the less lubrication. Maybe some of that argument has been resolved?
 

PAUL161

Great Pumpkin
Silver
Country flag
Online
Brosky said:
Scott,

When we raced back in PA, we ran nothing but Kendall. Now I guess that the Brad Penn oil was originally Kendall, or something like that.

Mickey was using VR1 after the rebuild and Woody said that I should go to BP, so I did. Nothing wrong with the VR1, he just like the BP better.

I went on a little oil buying spree a year or so ago and ended up with a case of the the Moss Classic Car motor oil and I still have six quarts of the original oil that I used for break in (Rotella Triple T), which is diesel oil loaded with ZDDP and six quarts of Castrol Syntec waiting to go in after that. So the TR6 is good through 2012.

I buy Rotella T for my tractors in 5 gallon containers, usually 50 gallons at a crack. One tractor takes 6 gallons plus filling filters. Reason I buy it in large quantities with a discount. But, I never gave it a thought of using it in the cars. PJ
 
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