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Sway bar recommendation for a Bugeye

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Curious as to why a rear bar is so bad. This is'nt the first I've heard this but winners circle has a kit of both bars I was thinking of trying. I've got a couple of Adco bars on BE and Midget and thought a little flatter cornering would be nice. Also could use a panhard bar. Peter C, anyone else?
KA.
 
The pictures won't really show the reinforcement as all I did was cut off the existing thin metal about 10 or 11 inches back from the front of the frame ends and then weld on the 3/16 thick metal. I cut the 1/4 inch thick bar mounts off the old metal and welded them-same distance from the front- to the 3/16 metal before I welded this in to replace the old metal. I did drill and tap the new metal thru where each saddle mounting hole is so now the bolts go thru both the 1/4 inch thick mount's threaded holes and the 3/16 inch thick frame bottom.
One problem I have with the bar is that at full lock the buffers will just slightly contact the inside of the wire wheels. This may be due to having replaced the original skinnier wheels with a new set of Daytons??? The originals were 4 inch and Daytons are 4 1/2. I just never try to hit full lock and it's OK.I guess I could rig up a "pad" on the steering arms where the stops are but it hasn't been an issue.
My experience with the rear bars-all on MGB's- is that the increased oversteer they will add is VERY unpredictable. I never had enough ability to control the throttle and the car would swap ends ruthlessly and unpredictably. I much prefer to use my limited throttling abilityto get the rear end out at my command and not having the ends swap without warning.
 
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