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Suspension Q's

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Stewart

Stewart

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Getting ready to head home for a bit so I'm finally going to get the suspension done.

I should be set for the front.
New lower A arms
New rebuilt swivel axles
Poly bushing all around
New front Bearings
Sway bar.
2 inch lowering springs
Lowered bump stops.

For the rear I have the lowered springs new shackles new CB rebound straps and new hardware all around. This is where the questions start.

I want to go to poly bushing all around and the leaf springs already have the front bushing installed. How hard is it going to be to remove?

The other area that I am concerned about are the shock links. With the suspension being lowered and the rear bump stop being cut down a bit would it be wise to switch over the cb shock links to keep the shock within its travel limits or am I just thinking to hard about it?
 
hmmmm... Well, that's a tough one I reckon. Since you're using lowered leaf springs in the rear, it probably is a good idea to change out the shock links since the shock will no longer be riding in the center of it's travel anymore.

Alternatively, I suppose you could try removing the shock arm, and rotating it so that the shock itself is set to it's middle of travel position with the suspension at rest. Naturally, if you do this the arm will be pointing up a bit instead of directly horizontal. This may raise clearance questions. However, I suspect that even with lowered bump stops in the rear the suspension travel will be less than it was in stock form. So, clearance for the shock arm travel might not be a problem.

As for the spring bushings, if you have the right tools it ought not be too difficult to do. I know that using a 1# hammer and a ratty old screw driver to remove that front bushing was an all day afair. That pressed in metal sleeve was a major pain to remove. I believe the trick that finally worked for me was drilling out the remaining rubber bush material, hack sawing the pressed in sleeve, and then banging the tar out of it with a hammer and screw driver. The poly bush went in MUCH easier than the pressed in bushing came out, thankfully.
 
Nunas/Stewart. I recently replaced the bushing in a spring eye. The method I used was so simple it surprised me. For my case the spring bushing was just a hair under 1" in diameter, so I took a spark plug socket[removed the rubber bit inside] that was just a hair larger than 1"" and drove the bushing out. Actually, it fell out after the socket penetrated about half way.I then placed a long bolt in the new bushing with the head inside the retained socket,this bolt allowed me to drive the socket out while chasing the new bushing in.Final alignment of the bushing was accomplished using a socket with a diameter of ~1".---Fwiw---Keoke

Skill level : near Zero
Time to accomplish: 15-to-25 Min.-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif-/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Stewart, Do yourself a favor and change the shock links to the links on the chrome bumper cars. Changing the factory position of the shock arm wouldn't solve your problem and could damage the shock on bottoming out. Use the shorter links and your problem is solved /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif PJ
 
I would change out to chrome shock links - & chrome rebound straps.
 
... chrome straps?
 
yep, the rubber rebound straps that go from the rear end to a locating point on the body - they keep the rear end from dropping too far....yours are probably rubber bumper straps - go to chrome (i.e., early) straps.
 
oh... DUH... just smack me... I thought when you said chrome straps, that you ment to go with straps that were made of chrome.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif just smack me... I think I need it for not making that connection properly....
 
SMACK!
 
If you turn the spring plates over and switch side for side it should give you the additional shock travel you need.
 
I'd be more inclined to use new CB links rather than offer the road gods another lower suspension point (in the way of "flipped" link attachment plates) to disrupt, to be honest.
 
Flipping em over actualy puts the shock link in an unusual angle...you really can't see the angle until you lay 2 of them side by side but its there....if you flip em over, take a hammer & straighten the perch where the shock link mounts.
 
Works on the race car. I have run the shock mounts lower than that even. Since it attaches to the axle it maintains a constant distance to the roadway surface. It will be higher than the bottom of the axle housing. CB links is probably the best way to go, but turning the plates over and switching cost nothing but a little time.
 
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Works on the race car. I have run the shock mounts lower than that even. Since it attaches to the axle it maintains a constant distance to the roadway surface. It will be higher than the bottom of the axle housing. CB links is probably the best way to go, but turning the plates over and switching cost nothing but a little time.

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By ded reckoning, the side-to-side, upside-down trick will put the lowest point (at least on my '64 B) to the ground at the link plate (admittedly, by only about 1/2"~3/4"), below the shackle bolts. I realize it will maintain the relationship to the axle, but I've seen some well tortured shackle bolts in my time, even on race cars. Highways hold some odd surprises. I'd still say go with the CB links as a "permanent solution".
 
Got the bushings out today. After fighting with the first one for an hour I gave up and went to the machine shop that did my engine work and had him press out the bushings. The one I was fighting with took some serious pressure from the press to get out while the other one just slid out like it was nothing. Go figure.
 
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