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Suspension Part Cleaning
- Thread starter Cain
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LastDeadLast
Jedi Knight
Offline
Cain,
I don't know if this is overkill or not but I bought a small sandblaster cabinet for $69.00 from harbor freight. It works great for suspension components, although I had to do some improvising with the rear trailing arms due to their size. The result is a suspension assembly that looks brand new.
Here is the link:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45411
and do yourself a favor and buy the light kit for it too...
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35636
The unit is small enough to store under a bench or on a shelf, but big enough to handle most component parts.
-Shannon
I don't know if this is overkill or not but I bought a small sandblaster cabinet for $69.00 from harbor freight. It works great for suspension components, although I had to do some improvising with the rear trailing arms due to their size. The result is a suspension assembly that looks brand new.
Here is the link:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45411
and do yourself a favor and buy the light kit for it too...
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35636
The unit is small enough to store under a bench or on a shelf, but big enough to handle most component parts.
-Shannon
OP
Cain
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Yeah. I've thought about sand blasting, but I don't even have an air compressor. So I would need to buy a compressor, a cabinet, a gun, etc. and that's getting expensive.
Thanks for your advice, but I'm really looking more at some kind of chemicals in a bucket type cleaning.
Thanks for your advice, but I'm really looking more at some kind of chemicals in a bucket type cleaning.
LastDeadLast
Jedi Knight
Offline
Cain,
Yeah, you're right, if you don't have a compressor, then it gets expensive.
I would highly recommend looking for a nice compressor however, I use mine daily and it really opens you up to a whole new world of really cool and destructive tools. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
-Shannon
Yeah, you're right, if you don't have a compressor, then it gets expensive.
I would highly recommend looking for a nice compressor however, I use mine daily and it really opens you up to a whole new world of really cool and destructive tools. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
-Shannon
Rick O.
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Use paint thinner (it's cheap by the gallon and works good). It won't remove existing paint, but is an excellent degreaser. I put a few gallons in a cleaned plastic 5-gallon paint bucket and let the wishbones etc. soak overnight. Then use a stiff bristle brush to clean the grime/loose paint off. I also ran a cylinder hone through the bushing holes to a nice shine, cleaned everything with brake cleaner, and sprayed black Krylon on all the parts. Looks great.
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
Offline
All good advise on the thinners, just one thing I would do a little different. Semi-gloss has some chalk in it and will hold some moisture, so I switched to gloss a few years back. It's easier to clean because it's slick and non porous. Wayne
Don't forget your automatic dish washer in the kitchen.....after the big chunks are removed, the powerful soap will really clean the parts.
(Best not to let the wife catch you.......they just don't understand, and you'll be blamed forever if a dish ever comes out dirty)
Don
(Best not to let the wife catch you.......they just don't understand, and you'll be blamed forever if a dish ever comes out dirty)
Don
AltaKnight
Jedi Knight
Offline
I just put the pieces in a vice and use a hand wire brush with a little elbow grease, gets the muck right off. I've also used the small wire wheels mounted in my dremel to get to the tight corners.
71tr
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Back to the sandblasting suggestion. This technique works great and you can make do with ordinary supplies. I use a large cardboard box as a blasting cabinet and if I am just cleaning up a couple of bolts or parts I don't even bother with the make shift cabinet. I just let ride with cheap starblast material ($5/bag) and point to nozzle toward the front yard. My suspension parts came out great and really hold the new paint job well.
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
Sandblasting is still easily the best way to clean those parts up, because it also goes a long way toward prepping for new paint, better than you can ever do by hand or with power tools. It really speeds up the process and the end result is worth it.
A final wipe down with some lacquer thinner is usually all that's needed after blasting, before painting. I avoid using acetone and mineral spirits, because I've found both to be incompatible with rattle can engine paints.
I have both a cabinet and a free-standing siphon (a pressure blaster is better) and don't know what I'd do without. I've used all sorts of cleaning methods over the years and blasting is a huge savings in time and effort. Yes, a good compressor is useful for many things.
If you happen to decide to "go for it" and get into sandblasting, it's just as important to protect many areas on suspension from the media, as it is to clean others. Don't blast any polished bearing surface, such as trunnion shafts and axle spindles. Rubber, rubber cement and some types of plastic can be used to cover and protect areas that must not be blasted.
An alternative is brake cleaner in spray cans, as already mentioned. It *will* remove many types of old paint. As noted, it's superb at de-greasing. Even so, I always wipe the part down with lacquer thinner before painting. This is "second best" to blasting. Do wear gloves when using this stuff, and work outside with plenty of fresh air. It's pretty potent! Brake cleaner evaporates very quickly, leaving a surface nearly ready for paint. But, because it doesn't have the "tooth" created by sand blasting, the new paint won't stick quite as well.
Another advantage to media blasting is that it gives an ideal surface for powder coating, if you ever want to do that. Powder coating is a really good, durable finish on suspension parts. Lasts far longer than paint. I have thought about getting one of those small PC systems from Eastwood, but haven't yet. There are many industrial powder coaters in my area who are happy to take in small jobs to fill in gaps in their production schedules. Hard to justify buying the gear unless I see myself retoring more cars in the future.
One concern about powder coating is that it can hide cracks or other potential problems.
This is another very important thing with suspension parts. Look them over very closely and carefully for any sign of cracks or damage. A failure in a suspension part can be catastrophic. Ideally, these parts should be Magnafluxed or put through some other type of crack detection. But, for a street car that's driven gently, very careful inspection might be enough.
I regularly replace all bolts on suspension with new, at least Grade 5, preferably Grade 8. Never reuse Nylok nuts. There are lots in a TR's suspension. Replace with fresh, new nuts. These don't have to be higher grade, but it would be nice if possible (Gr 8 Nyloks are expensive).
I usually use a low-gloss black engine paint on suspension parts, then coat with a semi-gloss clear engine paint until I get it just right. The reason for engine paint isn't heat resistance, but resistance to oils and grease that are always on these parts. It holds up pretty well.
Have fun!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
Sandblasting is still easily the best way to clean those parts up, because it also goes a long way toward prepping for new paint, better than you can ever do by hand or with power tools. It really speeds up the process and the end result is worth it.
A final wipe down with some lacquer thinner is usually all that's needed after blasting, before painting. I avoid using acetone and mineral spirits, because I've found both to be incompatible with rattle can engine paints.
I have both a cabinet and a free-standing siphon (a pressure blaster is better) and don't know what I'd do without. I've used all sorts of cleaning methods over the years and blasting is a huge savings in time and effort. Yes, a good compressor is useful for many things.
If you happen to decide to "go for it" and get into sandblasting, it's just as important to protect many areas on suspension from the media, as it is to clean others. Don't blast any polished bearing surface, such as trunnion shafts and axle spindles. Rubber, rubber cement and some types of plastic can be used to cover and protect areas that must not be blasted.
An alternative is brake cleaner in spray cans, as already mentioned. It *will* remove many types of old paint. As noted, it's superb at de-greasing. Even so, I always wipe the part down with lacquer thinner before painting. This is "second best" to blasting. Do wear gloves when using this stuff, and work outside with plenty of fresh air. It's pretty potent! Brake cleaner evaporates very quickly, leaving a surface nearly ready for paint. But, because it doesn't have the "tooth" created by sand blasting, the new paint won't stick quite as well.
Another advantage to media blasting is that it gives an ideal surface for powder coating, if you ever want to do that. Powder coating is a really good, durable finish on suspension parts. Lasts far longer than paint. I have thought about getting one of those small PC systems from Eastwood, but haven't yet. There are many industrial powder coaters in my area who are happy to take in small jobs to fill in gaps in their production schedules. Hard to justify buying the gear unless I see myself retoring more cars in the future.
One concern about powder coating is that it can hide cracks or other potential problems.
This is another very important thing with suspension parts. Look them over very closely and carefully for any sign of cracks or damage. A failure in a suspension part can be catastrophic. Ideally, these parts should be Magnafluxed or put through some other type of crack detection. But, for a street car that's driven gently, very careful inspection might be enough.
I regularly replace all bolts on suspension with new, at least Grade 5, preferably Grade 8. Never reuse Nylok nuts. There are lots in a TR's suspension. Replace with fresh, new nuts. These don't have to be higher grade, but it would be nice if possible (Gr 8 Nyloks are expensive).
I usually use a low-gloss black engine paint on suspension parts, then coat with a semi-gloss clear engine paint until I get it just right. The reason for engine paint isn't heat resistance, but resistance to oils and grease that are always on these parts. It holds up pretty well.
Have fun!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
71tr
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Alan makes a very good point about checking the cleaned suspension parts for damage. After sandblasting my suspension I looked everything over and proceeded to paint. It was only after the first coat of paint that I noticed cracks in my trailing arm mounting brackets. Severe and dangerous cracks. Needless to say they have since been replaced.