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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
Offline
My two cents worth
Rust Bullet, POR-15, and many other products are moisture cured urethanes that provide a hard durable finish. These products are UV sensitive and will fade or discolor when exposed to sunlight. They can be top coated, often requiring an intermediate product. If you look at the instructions for POR or Eastwood, they say clean off grease and dirt, remove loose rust, convert remaining rust, and apply their product. For clean metal, apply their rust converter prep and then their product.
The "encapsulator" statements made by these products, just mean they provided an air and moisture proof barrier.
All these products do well if applied according to directions. If not, like all coatings they will peel, or otherwise fail.
A few people mentioned Eastwoods Chassis Black. I tested this product and found that while it does provide a seemingly hard finish, unfortunately it took a few days to cure. I still have the quart which will probably never be used.
If you media blast or even prepare your parts according to POR instructions you can use traditional automotive coatings from SEM, PPG and others like Krylon & Dupli-Color to achieve the same if not better results, in the same number of steps. Using a catalyzed product allows me to buy a quart or two of paint and the catalyst, mix only what I need, when I need it, and know it will cure in hours, not days. Catalyst products are also easier to clean up.
I continue to use off the shelf epoxy rattle can paint over clean well treated metal.
In the end, I suppose it all comes down to your budget, what equipment is available and what works for you. As long as the products are applied to properly prepared surfaces, in accordance with the manufactures instructions, things should work out.
Oh, a word on rust converters. They only convert rust they come into contact with. If you have rust in pits, or in layers, just spraying on the converter will not get it down to the bottom of the rust. Always remove as much of the rust as you can, and work the converter into the remaining rust with scotch brite pads.
Rust Bullet, POR-15, and many other products are moisture cured urethanes that provide a hard durable finish. These products are UV sensitive and will fade or discolor when exposed to sunlight. They can be top coated, often requiring an intermediate product. If you look at the instructions for POR or Eastwood, they say clean off grease and dirt, remove loose rust, convert remaining rust, and apply their product. For clean metal, apply their rust converter prep and then their product.
The "encapsulator" statements made by these products, just mean they provided an air and moisture proof barrier.
All these products do well if applied according to directions. If not, like all coatings they will peel, or otherwise fail.
A few people mentioned Eastwoods Chassis Black. I tested this product and found that while it does provide a seemingly hard finish, unfortunately it took a few days to cure. I still have the quart which will probably never be used.
If you media blast or even prepare your parts according to POR instructions you can use traditional automotive coatings from SEM, PPG and others like Krylon & Dupli-Color to achieve the same if not better results, in the same number of steps. Using a catalyzed product allows me to buy a quart or two of paint and the catalyst, mix only what I need, when I need it, and know it will cure in hours, not days. Catalyst products are also easier to clean up.
I continue to use off the shelf epoxy rattle can paint over clean well treated metal.
In the end, I suppose it all comes down to your budget, what equipment is available and what works for you. As long as the products are applied to properly prepared surfaces, in accordance with the manufactures instructions, things should work out.
Oh, a word on rust converters. They only convert rust they come into contact with. If you have rust in pits, or in layers, just spraying on the converter will not get it down to the bottom of the rust. Always remove as much of the rust as you can, and work the converter into the remaining rust with scotch brite pads.