Surface rust treatments - hard to reach surfaces?

[RickB]

I'd like to know if any of the products that are supposed to stop & prevent rust actually work. Specifically I have a hood that has some rust out on the front end. I've been waiting for a better one to come along but so far no joy.

I can clean up & paint the rusty area I can get to, but what about the inside of the front lip on the hood?

Is there a product that you can spray (or pour) into an area like that to stop & prevent the rust?

While we are on the subject, I have good floors now and would like to keep them that way or even strengthen them & definitely want to prevent rust - what product should I use there?

 

[zimmy]

that blue deruster in the clear bottle works
really well on bolts, etc...
maybe put it in a spray bottle for
hard to reach places, rinse, dry, then paint
to seal it....zimmmy

 

[ecurie_ecosse]

I hear good things about Por15,you could try that on the floor.
The only thing I can think of for the bonnet,is a spray on rust convertor,but some of them require rinsing with water as well.

I hope some one else can give us a hint on this Rick,I'd like to know more about it too!!

Stuart.

 

[rulle7]

For the bonnet, waxoyl might work well.

 

[tosoutherncars]

Hey, finally a question I know something about! (For my bona fides, check the VW in my sig.)

If you can reach the whole area with a damp rag, I'd suggest using a phosphoric acid-based solution to dissolve the rust. You can buy made-to-order solutions (ex. www.eastwoodco.com) but BEHR plumbing pipe rust remover (available at Home Depot and others) works just as well, and is cheaper. Notes:

- keep the working area warm, it speeds up the rust dissolving process.

- keep the working area damp at all times, do NOT let it dry out. It will form stains that are difficult to remove.

- when all the rust has disappeared (yes, it's like magic!) wipe the area over with thinners, and/or rinse well with warm water. It will leave a phosphor coating that prevents flash rust, and holds primer & paint very nicely.

- this process will remove loose, scaled paint, but will not lift most smooth, cured paint.

As to your floors... click the MG link in my sig, you'll see I used the above method to remove surface rust, then Rust Encapsulator (Eastwood's Paint-Over-Rust product) and a spray bomb of OE colour. Should be good for many years.

 

[HAN8L1965]

I agree with Duncan, I did however use a rust eating product I got from an auto paint store. Two part, one eats rust the other stops the process. I then used Eastwoods encapulator. In areas I couldn't get to I just sprayed the encapsulator on. After a year it still looks as good as the day I fixed it. A little pricey per can but a spray can goes a long way.

Mark

 

[regularman]

I used waxoxyl in the places that I could not see and po-15 on any rust that I coudl get to. That stuff works be but it is hard as rock and hard to sand. Have to grind it off. Also you have to top coat it before it dries completely or you will have to sand with 600 grit to get paint to stick.

 

[jcatnite]

Will POR-15 topcoat smoothly? I've never used it but I figured it would cure up kind of bumpy. I'm not thinking of outer surfaces such as fenders and such but maybe under places that could be seen such as under the hood areas. Just exploring options to be honest.
Thanks,
JC

 

[dklawson]

Will POR-15 topcoat smoothly? I've never used it but I figured it would cure up kind of bumpy. I'm not thinking of outer surfaces such as fenders and such but maybe under places that could be seen such as under the hood areas. Just exploring options to be honest.
Thanks,
JC

You will be surprised how POR levels out and leaves a glass-like smooth surface. I like POR but I do not sing it's praises the way others do. To apply it correctly you have to follow their prep procedure carefully and then babysit the coating to know when to properly apply a second coat. This is not a product you throw at a problem, it's a system that when applied correctly and patiently gives good results.

As for topcoat, yes, you can topcoat POR. They sell a special primer called "Tie-Coat" that is made to adhere to the glass-like surface of cured POR. However, I don't like Tie-Coat. I prefer POR's alternative method which involves babysitting the second coat of POR and when it approaches being "finger drag tacky" you spray a heavy fog coat of the primer you'll use with your topcoat. The fog coat should NOT completely seal the POR, you want it to breath for several days to let solvents escape. Once you allow a couple of days for cure, you can apply a heavy coat of your regular high-build primer and sand in preparation for the top coat. You have to be patient with POR.

BTW, you can spray POR by thinning it slightly. ONLY use their thinner for this. I use a cheap disposable air brush as I don't want to risk ruining a good gun. Remember, any POR you get on your skin will be proudly displayed for weeks. Also, POR has a short shelf life so it's best bought in the small half-pint six-packs.

Eastwood's products are also great. I have used their rust encapsulator paint... but not since they changed its name from "Coroless" paint. It is a conversion paint with glass flakes and some form of phosphoric acid in it. Rust Encapsulator is easy to apply and very suitable for areas that are not "high visibility".

 

[regularman]

I sanded down the surface rust in some places under the hood and then coated with black por15 and gave it a few hours then top coated it with almond rustoleum. all by brush and it looks ok.