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I don't think that any manufacturer makes an ignition switch that isn't spring loaded to get it away from starter engagement as soon as the driver releases tension on the key.

I'm 1,600 miles away from my 32 year old car, so I can't verify with the spare that I have in the garage, but I'm sure it's made to move away on it's own.
 
Before I put the switch in I tried it with the key in it and it felt " spring loaded" in that it did not stay in the far position. But once installed it definatly does not return without manually moving the key one notch. I cannot believe that is the norm. It does not seem that you could install it wrong as it is all one assembly. This would obviously create extra starter wear, not to mention sounds terrible when starting. Do tdskip and I have defective switches?
 
The switch should return to the run position on it's own once released from the start position. You either received the wrong switch or it is defective! On a TR3 my keyed ignition switch for example has only 2 positions on and off with a separate push button start switch. Maybe you got the wrong type switch sent to you.
 
Sounds like either we both got bad switches or both ordered the wrong part.

I can't see that there is another other way to install it....
 
The unit is the ignition lock type that hangs from the steering column, and is identical to the unit that was in the car before. The unit just doesn't seem to want to get off that far position without manually turning the key back one notch.
When asking previously about the wiring, my old switch was wired with 1 single white wire on the same terminal as the brown/white wire. while all the advise and diagrams show all 3 white on the same terminal which is how I rewired this new switch. Could this be the problem or is it simply mechanical in nature?
Also anyonr know what terminal would be for a radio hookup?
 
If it fails to return from "start" on its own, the thing is defective. Only recourse is to call Moss and advise them. Likely every switch in the batch they have will do the same thing.

This is an exasperating but on-going situation... ~we're~ the "Quality Control Department" for pre-FUBAR'd counterfeit parts. And we get to PAY for the priveledge.
 
I was thinking the same thing but trying to keep a positive attitude about it possibly being the wrong switch. Roofman, your new switch is definitely not working correctly regardless of the wiring! Sorry for the confusion.
 
What really sucks is the time it takes to replace. I will call tommarow and see what kind of run around they try to give me.
 
Interestingly, several years ago when I was shopping for all new switches for my TR6, Moss sold me wiper switch with the understanding that it probably wouldn't work! They said they have had really bad luck with the Asian manufacturer for this particular switch and most people send them back. They were nice enough to send me 3 of the same switch to see if any would work. Moss said that currently (at that time) this is all they could get. I finally got one to work after modifying it a bit and sent the other two back, on their nickel. They were honest and apologetic. I don't know if the wiper switches currently on the market are any better. My rigged job still works, on high only.
 
The quality of replacement bits (or lack thereof) was a frustrating part of trying to maintain a restoration shop. Having to replace a "widget" two or three times due to pre-broken parts is NOT commercially viable, no matter who pays shipping. When 'Special Interest Car Parts' decided to quit doing business, it was the "writing on the wall."


EDIT: I've not tried there folks specifically for that switch, but it's worth a stab...

https://www.holden.co.uk
 
Well I called The Roadster Factory where I bought the part
( Not Moss ) and they will take the part back, but dang, more time and trouble, and more wait time. So out come the guages AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They agreed the part is defective. So back to square one.
 
Got a call from the Roadster Factory a few minutes ago, and they are going to send one out to me and have me return the other so I don't have to wait for double the shipping time, or pay and wait for refund! They are also going to check the part before they send!
After the Vicky Brit post with their poor customer service this is not bad at all considering.
 
TRF are trying hard to beat the "white box" problem. As are Moss. VB are parts shippers... they don't LIKE what's happening and will replace a "pre-broken" part, but they're at a loss as to how to FIX the problem.

It STILL doesn't help when time is money, tho. It's a three-times loss: Initial replacement, second replacement and what SHOULD have been done instead. Very frustrating.
 
If I had a dog I would kick it.
Put in the "new" replacement switch today, and same problem -starter stays on and have to click the key back 1 notch for it to shut off.
I am starting to think the switch is wired wrong.
I have nothing on terminal one
2 white/ brown wires on terminal 2
red/white on terminal 3
and 3 white wires on terminal 5

or..... a second bad switch? The switch installed and uninstalled springs back when you turn it to the start position, at least it feels good.
Any ideas???????
 
You might be having a problem with the starter itself. The drive might be getting hung up in the flywheel or the plunger on the solenoid might be sticking. Both of those things would allow the starter to keep running even if you release the key, as the main contacts for the starter motor would remain closed.

I would proceed by removing the small wire (the one that activates the solenoid) from the starter solenoid, hooking up a voltmeter or test light from that to ground, and then work the starter/ignition switch. If the voltage rises and drops in conjuction with the start position of the ignition switch, then the problem is in the starter and/or it's engagement with the flywheel, not the ignition switch.

Edit: I just more carefully re-read your post, and you said that if you physically turned the key back, that the starter would shut off. My above diagnosis might not be correct then. However, I would try it anyway. Also, you won't get as frustrated having an engine cranking killing the battery while you're trying to figure out what's wrong. Does the starter engage when you just turn to the ignition position? Or does it only start to crank when you turn to the start position and then refuse to turn off when the key springs back?
 
I see your point, but why would it stop when the key is clicked back one notch? I had no issue with the starter itself until changing the switch.

The reason I started this whole thing was I could not get my key out of the ignition. So since my last post I hooked the wires up to my old switch and left it dangling, and when I tried to start -the same blasted thing,starter run on until you click the key back 1 notch, and this on the switch that was in the car, and had no starter holdup problem.
 
Yes, that's why I did some more digging. I went to Dan Master's site (advance Auto Wire), and looked at his wiring instructions for the harness that he makes. He had the numbers labeled on the ignition switch and where the various wires went. They are different then the way you have it.

Some of his wire colors are different, but I'll translate for you according to the colors you have.

Terminal #1 White/Red ..goes to starter
Terminal #2 Brown/White ..feed from battery
Terminal #3 White ..ignition feed
Terminal #5 Accessory ..radio etc.

Try that and see what happens.

Edit: Keep the same color wires grouped together on the same terminal. All the whites together etc.
 
Bentley shows for 72-74 tr6 the following

1. 1 each white red (starter solenoid)
2. 2 each white/brown (switch power)
3. 3 each white (idiot lights, ignition on warning light,ignition, etc)
4. not used
5. various radio and accessories

Not as fast as Martx-5...needed to find a magnifing glass to read the small print
 
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