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Sudden Camber Issue Wrecking Good Tires

Midget78

Jedi Trainee
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Im scratching my head as to how to fix this one. I noticed about a month ago the front outside tread area's on my tires were worn a lot more then the entire tread surface. I recognize its a "camber" adjustment. But I think about what changed? I recall changing the passenger tie-rod and put on an all new shock on that side as well. The drivers side was already redone by the PO. No shims were under the shock and the tie-rod was screwed on right up to the lock nut to maintain adjustment. I rotated the tires and already am showing the same pattern on the front and need to fix this yet im not sure where to start. When the roads are wet i for sure can tell the front end is out of wack. Everything is pretty tight up front with little signs of wear so Im sure its a matter of me getting under there and adjusting what needs to be adjusted.
 
I went out this morning and returned to the side with all the work that was done since the sudden change and adjusted the toe-in. I can visually see the top of the tire tips in and while the opposite side is straight this side is toed in quite a bit. After looking at it I think the shock is the issue. It seems like the arm is a to short. The guys over at the Winners circle suggested shimming under the shock for "positive camber" but it confuses me as the one I took off had no shims. I wonder if the shock bases vary in height but you would think the difference in my case is pretty major?
 
Pettttter, we need Peter. But I think there are different length shock arms.

Give our good friend Peter C a call he will know off the top of his head.


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The front shock arms are all the same length. But do call Peter to see what he suggests to check out. But I'm wondering to you a lower A-arm failure or bushings that have finally split out.
 
I'm a bit confused by your description of your problem. You say that you can visually see that the tires are "toed in" and that the tie rod end was screwed on to the same place as originally to maintain the alignment? First, it's almost impossible to "see" the recommened 1/8" of toe in. The difference is so small most can't detect that amount visually. You need to check it with some type of reference gauge, either string the car or make up a toe gauge that you can use under the car on the front and rear of the front tires. You need to check the measurment of the tread width at axle height on the front and rear edge of the tire and that should be 1/8" wider at the rear than the front. Get that sorted first if you can then you can check the camber. They are a bit inter related so as you turn the tire it will start to change camber as well, so get the tires straight and toed in properly before checking camber. If you find that the camber is off then shim or replace bushings and then reset the toe in. If you don't know how to "string" the car to check alignment then I suggest using a simple toe gauge that you can easily make from some scrap 2X4s. All you need is a wide "U" shaped piece that will span the front suspension from outside to outside. Just place one upright against the edge of the tire tread and measure from the other upright to the edge of the tire tread on the other side, then repeat at the other side of the tire and compare the measuremnets. The "U" shape allows it to rest under the car clear of the chassis. Here's a gauge I made for my shop from some scrap metal I had around to get an idea.
 

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I had the same problem with outside edge wear on my bugeye. The toe-in was set correctly by laser. The cure was to reduce the clearly visible camber by raising the front shocks by the thickness of two hardened washers (about 3/16"). I did this just before leavng for LotO and with two fresh front tires. After 4080 miles applied in two weeks, the wear pattern is perfect and the handling is better.
As another poster pointed out, you can't see the correct amount of toe, but you can definitley see a large amount of camber.

Glen Byrns
 
I'm a little confused here. I understood you to say the outer tread is wearing and the top of the tire appears tipped inward. These two are inconsitent. Obvious negative camber sould wear the inside tread instead of outside. Also, toe errors tend to cause scalloping at one side of the tire (often both tires) whereas camber error only affects the one tire and more evenly rather than the scallops.
 
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