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Successful decapitation

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I managed to successfullly decapitate my MGB today. From my thread titled Perplexed, it was determined that the head was cracked in cylinder 3. So today it was off with her head! I scored a pre-smog head along with an extra engine and OD trans a couple of weeks ago. Cracked head came out, used head went in, engine goes vroom! :smile: And right now my back is going OW! LoL

What is the process for post transplant care? How long do I wait before retorquing the head bolts? According to the manual, I torqued the head bolts to 50 ft lbs, following the recommended pattern. I went in stages from 30 to 40 to 50. Then I fired up the engine and after everything came to temperature, rechecked the valve lash and rechecked the head bolts. At this point everything looks good to go! A very successful day! :laugh:
 

billspit

Jedi Knight
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Can someone explain the proper retorquing procedure. Do you loosen and retorque, or just use the torgue wrench set to the proper ft/lbs and tighten?
 

bgbassplyr

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Don't know for sure, but I always backed off just enough (one flat or so) to break the nut or bolt loose, and then tighten to the correct number. Do this one at a time following the factory sequence.
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
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I'll go with Jim on this.

Caveat: I don't bother to re-torque iron-on-iron engines (DON'T beat me, Hap!).

The alloy-on-iron Lotus rigs, yes. The alloy-on-alloy Alfa units I've owned for decades don't get a re-torque either. This "daily" 1750cc has run from 2000 without it. Every MGB I've owned (100K milers in a couple cases) didn't either.

Overheating, cold engine over-rev or red-line excesses are the only things I can point to that would receive a re-torque.... but I'd be more inclined to replace the head gasket entirely if any of that happened.

This is JUST my ~personal experience~ take on the whole deal.

...I'll be available for whipping after five PM on Thursday. :smirk:
 

bgbassplyr

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Wet noodles at the ready...... :hammer:
 
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