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SU Fuel Pump

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Richard Dickinson

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I was starting to put new points in my fuel pump, when I pulled the cap off I noticed that the insulation was worn through where the leads from the coil come out of the steel coil housing. Is the any way to get the coil out of the housing to solder on new leads?

If the square body BT7 pump is not repairable, what would be involved in installing the electronic pump that is used in late number BJ8's? Moss has these pumps for less than half the price of the older square body pumps.
 
I do not know that pump too well but a direct replacement item probably will cause you the least trouble in the long run--Keoke
 
Hi Richard,

I did this a while ago and if I remember correctly, after removing the point base and pump body, withdraw the diaphragm and you will have the solenoid as a separate component. Look at the top of the solenoid at the point where the diaphragm rod would emerge and you will note that there is a circular joint encompassing the opening. This circle is really a plug that holds the solenoid winding in the housing and can be pressed or punched out. I was careful and used a hammer to knock it out.

I trust this helps.

All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
I can't see how I can punch the disk out from the top. Tried punching the whole thing out from the bottom. The only thing that moved was the iron core. Maybe if I heat the case and cool the disk it might be loser. I think the pump is probably toast.
 
Richard,

DON’T HEAT the HOUSING. As I remember, I took a socket and hit the circle with a hammer until it pushed in and could be withdrawn from the bottom. If you think it is toast already, then hitting it harder with a hammer should not destroy it any further. Remember, when installing the core, use a large enough socket to sit on the core and hammer it in until it is even with the surface of the housing.

One last point, there may be an electronic component (I think a diode) installed on one of the wires that could be burned out. I would look at the SU carburetor manual (which also includes the SU Fuel Pump) on John Sims web site’s Technical section at www.healey6.com to see if they have some listing for that component.

Hope this also helps,

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Dave did my now spare (I bought an new one from Moss). I thought he was very reasonable and fast. I carry it as a spare under the battery. I always like carrying spare everything ready to go for long trips.
 
I sent a box of square body SUs to Dave. He built me a pump out of the best parts for far less than a new pump. He included his optical trigger replacing the points. Far better than the original IMHO.

Marv J
 
Kids don't try this at home. I tried to no avail to punch the ends out of the solenoid with a hammer and a punch. So since this thing was never going to be reliable with the frayed insulation I resorted to one last thing. I put in my hydraulic press. This resulted in a loud bang when it popped out of the press with the disk still in the end and a broken flange. So after 50 plus years it's time to upgrade.
 
Hi Richard,

Sorry to hear that your pump is really destroyed and am quite surprised your solenoid was that stubborn. I was working on my pump yesterday and checked to verify that I had given you the correct direction to drive the circle in. I noted on my pump that the circle was slightly depressed from the surface of the pump and realigned it using a socket and hammer with no difficulty. I wonder if your pump’s resistance to removal could have been the result of welding through molecular migration since it stood in place for quite a long period.

Sorry for your loss….
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Directly from SU I can get a new square body electronic pump for about $300 after exchange rate and shipping. This is about $150 less than Moss. Also they have an electronic conversion kit for 39 British pounds.
 
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