stuck distributor?

[DrEntropy]

Nah... "frosted" clear coat, sun damage. Haven't tried it yet as a paint stripper. :laugh:

 

[mgnewbie]

checked the otter switch and it was NO (normally open). traced the wire to the block fuse and found that the fuse terminals were badly rusted. Bought a replacement 25A CB (circuit breaker) as recommended in the Bently manual. Also found the connector that goes into the fuse box was corroded, and another wire (12V power supply) that goes to the ignition switch relay just came off the terminal when I pulled on it. No wonder there was no power to the fuse box, the 35A fan fuse and to the otter switch. Went to NAP and bought me a box of terminals. I will be replacing most of the terminals.

Thanks for the tip on NAPA. also picked up a timing light and some carb cleaner, etc...

will update some more later...

 

[DrEntropy]

Be aware: some carb cleaners can attack the diaphragm in the Stromberg. If you're gonna use it, best to bench the carb and disassemble it to keep the carb cleaner from being allowed to sit in contact with the diaphragm for any length of time. This falls under the category of "may as well"... you'll need to go thru that carb soon anyway. If the car sat inert for any time longer than a month or two, the fuel has degraded and the hateful ethanol has done some eevile things. Usually build-up of crusty greenish-white "plaque" will form any place the fuel/air barrier is found. Needle, float bowl, float needle & seat...
...'sides, it'll give you a chance to see how that silly thing works! :wink:

 

[ecurie_ecosse]

...'sides, it'll give you a chance to see how that silly thing works! :wink:

And if you get it right,you'll only need to do this once. :thumbsup: Unlike me, I've just removed,checked,cleaned and re installed the beautiful ZS three times.Seems to be okay now.

Stuart.

 

[mgnewbie]

Sorry, I rechecked and my carb is a weber. Here is a picture.

I plan to remove it to clean it and hopefully put it back together correctly...LOL! Will I need to order any gaskets or parts to clean the carb?

 

[ecurie_ecosse]

I'd order a rebuild kit before I took the carb apart. :thumbsup:

Stuart.

 

[mgnewbie]

Thanks, Rebuild part? Where should I order it from? I think my carb is a Weber 32/36 DGV (manual choke).

 

[ecurie_ecosse]

Probably from Mossmotors.com .There are probably other places too.

Stuart.

 

[DrEntropy]

EEEOOWWWWW!!!!


MY EYES!!!!!

 

[DrEntropy]

Go to any "dune buggy" type VW independent shop and ask 'em for the kit. NAPA will have one listed too.

That ain't no Weber, BTW. It's really a Holley. :wink:


An' here I thought we wuz gonna be friends, YB.

 

[mgnewbie]

Hi Doc, You sure its a Holley? It says Weber (vertically) on the outside wall of the float chamber.(you can make out the Web...in the picture). And it looks just like the diagram here for Weber 32/36 DGV
https://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/typical_dgv_carb_install_views.htm

When I step on the gas, the engine shudders, and I need to backup on the gas a little for the engine to catch up, and makes some-kind of knocking sound maybe from pre-ignition (ping?).

 

[mgnewbie]

I've ordered the weber 32/36 DGV rebuild kit from Victoria British Ltd. It was $44.95 and included the jets and seats as well. There was a rebuild/Repair kit on JT Outfitter for $24.95, but from the picture on their website, the kit included only a few parts...so I decided to go for the more expensive one from VBL... :smirk:

Took out the

I am now in the process of fixing the clutch....went under the car and discovered the rubber boot over the yoke into the clutch housing is all torn and messed up, so I checked the VBL catalog and I ordered the more expensive square one for 1980 MGB... :frown: wished I'd gotten a 67 or older....

Bought a C-clamp to clamp the slave piston all the way in to remove any air trapped in the slave before tearing the master. I will post more stuff later...

 

[mgnewbie]

sorry...Took out and cleaned the primary idle jet, and the idle mixture needle to check if idling would improve, but, it didn't....so I need to rebuild the card....hmmm

 

[DrEntropy]

It's a fairly standard carb so the task shouldn't be confusing.

The downdraught Weber coupled with the Cannon manifold is, ummm... problematic. It'll take some effort to sort it, An EGA would be the best tool for the job.

Disclaimer: This is MY personal opinion (and you may ask any here, they'll likely tell ya I'm FULL of 'em :wink: ) but I'd suggest you hunt down an earlier SU setup and exhaust manifold...

...or set this one up to run adequately, vend it, then go chasing that pre-'68!

 

[mgnewbie]

Repaired the clutch master cylinder (just changed the cups on the piston) and washed the cylinder and guts in clean brake fluid, assembled it and bled...whew! It took 1/2 a gallon of brake fluid to flush out the black goo and bled air that was in the clutch hydralics. :crazy:

Tested the clutch and its now working!!!! yippeee. I must remember to install the slave yoke boot when I get it from VBL.

Tomorrow, I'll work on the brake hydralics....

Time for a cold beer....

Thanks Doc for your advice on getting a 67 or earlier MGB...So. this will be my repair training MGB then...

BTW..what's EGA?

 

[DrEntropy]

"Exhaust Gas Analyser".

Ya got cold BEER?!?!

You're my new best friend again!

Yup!!! get a pre-'68. At worst, a pre '74.

 

[Silverghost]

"Exhaust Gas Analyser".

Ya got cold BEER?!?!

You're my new best friend again!

Yup!!! get a pre-'68. At worst, a pre '74.

I guess I "barely" made the cut by getting my 68! <whew>!

 

[mgnewbie]

Another update...
Removed the brake master cyl.(MBC) Found that the pressure diff. unit is rusted and jammed in the bore. The plastic pressure failure switch(PFS) must have broken off a long while ago, and looks like some water got in. The broken threaded plastic stub was still in the hole, so I drilled it out with a 3/8" drill bit. The primary & sec. pistons looks ok (not rusted), but the cups were worn pretty bad. I have a repair kit with new cups and seals.

A quick question...will the MBC work/be safe if I plug the PFS hole with a bolt? Or do I even need to bother plugging this hole since the piston in the pressure differential unit is rust and stuck in the bore?

Worst case, I will need to buy a new MBC. :frown:

 

[jessebogan]

Hey Doc, did ya ever try to make the air injection work w/ a DGV?? That will make you pull out hair.

Back to the thread... If there is any doubt about the integrity of the brakes, I vote for new parts. Rebuilding is all well and good, but new removes doubt.As far as I know, a bolt should work in the PDWA. I've not done it, but I sure have observed a few...

 

[DrEntropy]

With brake issues, I agree with Jesse the best bet is replacement. That said the bolt in that PDWA will work... as long as the piston is in the centered position.

If you're set on a M/C rebuild, run a cylinder hone thru the bore to clean it up and INSPECT it for pits. If it isn't completely smooth along the entire I.D., it needs replacing. And while you're at it: if the three flex-lines are original, I'd be for replacing those as well. One system ya don't want "fudged" is the brakes. Whether you intend to keep it or sell it, if those binders fail at a time they're really needed you're in for a bad day.