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stuck distributor?

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OK. Safety First! I will order a new MC. BTW, I don't have the plastic switch, so, when I receive the new MC, I will still need to plug the PDWA right? Or must i install a new switch. I think the original wire is still there. (green-green/orange).

Thanks for the advice on the flex lines. I will check with NAPA if they have it.

"Hey Doc, did ya ever try to make the air injection work w/ a DGV?? That will make you pull out hair."

I have a DGV and also an air-pump(not sure if this thing is working or not???)What is this about? I am waiting for carb rebuild kit to arrive....
 
While waiting for a new MC and flex hoses, I repaired the old MC, bled the brakes and checked the flex hoses. Thanks for your advice on the flex hoses Doc. Upon close inspection, I found a deep gash on the right front flex hose that's ripe to pop. The front hose has protective springs covering the hose. I will definately need to change out all 3 hoses.

since the brake seems to be now working, I couldn't help but took the car out for a drive around the block....wow it was exciting!!!! :banana:

I will need to title and register it. It seems in Maryland, cars that are 20 yrs old can be registered as antique/classic cars without needing to have inspection, so, I am considering removing unnecessary stuff under the hood that may interfere with better performance :crazyeyes:

I think there are two carbon canisters, also air pump, Glup valve, and a few other stuff that I don't really understand their purpose, as well as the catalytic converter...

Any recommendation on what to keep and what to yank out?
 
mehheh... that's a baaaad question for ME to answer. I'd yank anything wot don't look like a 1967 MGB! :jester:

Problem is, your induction/exhaust is "foreign" to that idea. A lot of the ancillary "plumbing" can be tossed over the side tho.
 
I would absolutely go for historic tags. No inspection, AND no emissions inspection either. Always good to keep your car away from the very poorly trained state minions. Once you get it up and running, drive down here on a Saturday, and I can probably give you some direction.
 
Who did you get the car from?? I had a shop in the airpark for a decade, and had a lot of customers out that way.
 
Good, Jesse!

I was reluctant to suggest all the stuff that ~could~ be done. :wink:
 
Doc, right....my car would look like an 80 but drive like a 67.

Jesse, I got it as a project car on ebay...the car was trucked from Georgia. It came with Georgia MVD Receipt (non-title) and the car is classified as Hobby Antique and no valid insurance, and the receipt expired in 2008, so I guess the last time it was registered and running must have been pre-2006.

The distributor housing and drive dog were rusted stuck in the engine, so Doc had helped me with his weasel [censored] receipe to free it.... :bow:

I plan to get the car in good running shape, do a bit of touch up and sell it, so I can buy a REAL MGB.... :lol:

Did you say you own a shop near the airpark? Which one is it?

Actually, I am new to this area. I moved here last year...from Hong Kong...been living and working there for 15 years...
 
There's no need to get rid of the carbon canisters. All they do is keep fumes from the gas tank and float bowls from venting to the atmosphere. There's an article somewhere on how to renew the carbon to keep them working effectively. I think the later canister system also incorporates an anti-run-on valve. I would think you'd want to keep that operational.

The air pump robs a very small amount of power (the power to turn the pump). It and the air injection rail can be removed but you have to do it right. I doubt you'd notice the change in power level though. I still have mine installed and it's been working fine for decades. My philosophy is that if it doesn't result in a noticeable power loss and it's good for the environment then I keep it (also keeps the car more original). The gulp valve should be kept in the system as long as you have the air pump. It doesn't rob any power but it provides an annoying backfire if it breaks.

I've never dealt with removing a cat. I'd guess there would be some mixture issues due to removal of back pressure so you might have to rejet the carbs, but I'm guessing.
 
Thanks for your advice. I 'll keep the canister, air pump and the glup valve. I am now dismentling and cleaning all these parts, as well as replacing the old hoses...
 
Jesse, I am taking my radiator to Loopers tomorrow to have it tested and repaired. I am in the process of changing the camshaft, so many things have been removed from the car including the radiator. Thank you for directing me to Loopers.

YB
 
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