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Stromberg Confusion, 175cd vs. 175cd-2 and engine fires...

bmurphy7369

Jedi Trainee
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Hello Group,

My name is Brian and I am new to the forum. I have just recently purchased a 1975 Jaguar XJ6C with hopes of driving it for a few years before doing a complete restoration. Much to my chagrin, just before the car was delivered to me from northern Indiana, there was a small carburettor fire that damaged the fuel hoses, the battery cables, the battery and severely burned the air cleaner housing. I was refunded the estimated cost of repair to the bonnet paint and to the engine compartment and assumed that my best option was to find a rebuildable set of 175cd Zenith Strombergs and to replace the other damaged components. I purchased such a set and a rebuild kit for each carburettor, only to then realise that my carburettors were marked 175cd2, and that the manual choke apparently was not the original setup, but that it was rather a replacement for the water/coolant original choke method. I have a few questions for anyone with some knowledge of the various Series II carburettor configurations. My car again is a 4.2 6L, 1975 XJ6 Coupe, currently equipped with manually-choked Stromberg 175cd-2 dual carburettors..... VIN# UF2J51101BW

1. Were these the original carbs for the year 1975 XJ6 4.2 6-cylinder engine?

2. Were these carbs originally water-choked or were some made from originally with the manual choke and choke knob on the lower dash by the driver's left knee?

3. Will the 175cd carb set I purchased serve as a suitable replacement for the 175cd-2 carb set, with minor, if any, changes or modifications?

4. Is a carburettor fire common to this era XJ6 or is this possibly related to an add-on ignition booster which I have noticed mounted just below the front carb, apparently on the engine block wall?

5. What is the best course of action to determine the cause of the fires without causing a third and possibly catastrophic fire from occuring?

I know these are difficult questions to answer without seeing the car and the damage, but I thought someone may have experienced similar problems in the past and may have a solution. I would like to keep the car as original as possible, but am not opposed to keeping the manual choke, if indeed it was not the original choke mechanism. If you have an answer to even one of these questions, please post a reply or write to me directly... thank you, and any input will be greatly appreciated.

briandmurphy@earthlink.net

1975 XJ6C, U.S. Specification, Manual Choke Strombergs, 4.2L 6-cylinder.
 
Brian, The ZS carburetors do not have a reputation for engine fires. I would think only extreme neglect would be a basis for this carburetor to start a fire. Once properly set up the 175 ZS is an efficient and reliable unit.
Do not install a pair with a water temperature activated choke. (auto choke as listed by ZS) Keep the manual choking arrangement. The water choke carbs may be convereted to a manual arrangement with very high quality retro kits which are available through most British car parts suppliers. (Try Moss Motors in California) Hope this answers some of your questions. I do not know what the 2 suffix on your carburetors means. Best regards. Jack
 
Jack,

Thank you. I think that what I have is a set that has already been converted to manual and I can just rebuild these, replacing the melted plastic items, which are few. Someone wrote recently and told me that the 1 and 2 variations are common on Volvo cars as well and they are considered to be interchangeable. Thanks for the reply and I'll post when I have the car on the road again, hopefully by the first sign of spring.

Brian
 
The carbs are interchangable, as is the rebuild kit between them. You may find a couple of extra vaccume fittings on the -2 model, but most likely the difference is internal, but not overly important. The critical thing is that the replacement carbs have the correct needle size.

The ignition system being under the carbs may well be what caused the fire. Depending on wich ZS carbs they are, they will have a fitting on the bottom of the float boal for adjusting the main jet up and down, or on fixed jet carbs, a plug that snaps into the hole that has an 'O' ring seal. If someone monkeyed with it and it started leaking, fuel will drip on anything under there.

I wouldn't recommend trying to repair a ZS carb that has been on fire, best to throw it away...
 
Thanks guys,

My problems are solved! I found a beautiful set of CD2's that came from a running TR6 and have purchased them and will rebuild as a precaution. I am having an electrical shop remove or move, not sure yet, the ignition booster (or "The Detonating Device" as I have come to call it) and should be back on the road soon. I really appreciate your information and will post when the work is done.

Brian
cheers.gif
 
Good deal, but sure you get the correct needle and piston return springs in them.
 
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