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stripped threads on master cyl

Millrat

Jedi Hopeful
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May have stripped the threads either on the master cyl or the flare nut on the clutch side on my 1962 Sprite. Is there a repair for the flare nut and pipe that doesn't involve replacing the whole pipe? I am willing to get a new MC as I have had nothing but pain with the one I have.
Thanks
 
Is there a repair for the flare nut and pipe that doesn't involve replacing the whole pipe? I am willing to get a new MC as I have had nothing but pain with the one I have.
Thanks

It's not pretty but you can always splice on a new section of pipe (with a good end) using a compression fitting.
 
That may be the way to go. Not pretty matches some of the rest of things under there.:smile: My main concern at this point is to get on the road.
 
Is it a 7/8" bore Master with front drum brakes? I have one you can have for postage costs to get you out of trouble. Will need a good hone (or perhaps a re-sleeve) as it came out of my Bugeye that is getting disc brakes so upgrading to 3/4" bore. I probably have a usable clutch line as well if needed. Let me know by tomorrow noon if possible, as I am heading out of town for a few weeks, but can take with me and post Tuesday.
Cheers
Lew
 
It will need to be heli-coiled. I can include that service if you want the unit rebuild and/or re-sleeved. I can also resize if you have a disc brake conversion with the wrong size MC. Just ask around here what you'll get back.
 
7/8 bore. It is relatively new but it developed problems almost immediately. The main issue now is welter or not the threads for the clutch side connection are stripped. Need to take it back apart to check. So I can get it helicoil it to fix the thread issue?
 
7/8 bore. It is relatively new but it developed problems almost immediately. The main issue now is welter or not the threads for the clutch side connection are stripped. Need to take it back apart to check. So I can get it helicoil it to fix the thread issue?

That would be the correct way to repair it.
 
I am interested in the resleeve even though this is a fairly new unit (under 100 miles total). Purchased from VB about two years ago but the mechanic that installed it for me didn't understand the brakes on the car. We should have replaced all the brake hoses initially and then worked from there. Short version is that we put a lot of pressure on the new master cylinder. I would like to have a long lasting unit and if it can be accomplished with your resleeve that would work out well. Cost?
 
I am interested in the resleeve even though this is a fairly new unit (under 100 miles total). Purchased from VB about two years ago but the mechanic that installed it for me didn't understand the brakes on the car. We should have replaced all the brake hoses initially and then worked from there. Short version is that we put a lot of pressure on the new master cylinder. I would like to have a long lasting unit and if it can be accomplished with your resleeve that would work out well. Cost?

Contact me offlist for details. Best to email me direct as well.
 
Gerard just resleeved my master to 3/4" in brass. This is one I know will not corrode and begin leaking a short time down the road. Be sue and upgrade rear backing plates and wheel cylinders as well to match 3/4" MC.
 
Mine is stock 7/8 with drum brakes. Just did all brake lining all the way round and replaced the rear bearings seals etc. The master cylinder was the first item I bought just before VB dropped the price from $300 down to the $130 or so they want for the same one now. If I had found this forum before I started I would have changed the brake lines out and not pushed the seals out of the MC trying to push brake fluid through a non existent hole. All this to say how beneficial the information here is:smile:.
 
Took everything apart again and found that I hadn't done the damage I thought I had. Cleaned it all up really well and I think it will go back together now. Thanks for the replies.
Erik
 
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