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Streched hand brake cable?

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Also under the heading of simple but undone still - let's talk hand brake cables. If I am out of adjustment then reasonable to assume the cable is incorrect or stretched? Anyone else deal with this recently?

Thanks!
 
Hi there - the brake shoes are adjusted so there is very slight drag without any brakes or handbrake being on. I think that is right so that suggests another problem, yes?
 
What's your VIN? Wire or disc wheels? Different length for both after...some VIN, have to look it up.
Early ones have a bell crank.....bushings loose?
 
One cable, two rods, and a bellcrank, right?
Worn clevis and/or clevis pins.
Worn bellcrank and loose pivot?
It has been a long, long time since I've seen an actual stretched e-brake cable that was not exhibiting other symptoms first, like fraying, rust, sticking.
I'd be looking at the other bits before the cable.
If external mechanicals are okay, does the ends of both radius rods move as soon as you have someone ratchet up on the lever?
If so, I'd look at the e-brake levers and locating pins.
 
Good point - there is other play on the pins etc but didn't seem like enough to wipe out the total range of adjustment. Maybe there is...
 
I still had the original brake cable in my 59 bugeye and could not get it adjusted tight enough either. I installed all new brake parts, and replaced clevis pins. I checked all wear points. It was still out of adjustment, and found the cable was stretched. I bought a new brake cable which worked at first, but then it stretched very quickly. (Apparently this is common for new cables being produced.) I finally found a company that can shorten cables and I just had my old one shortened. They had to put in a new end piece (technical term for this?) at the emergency brake handle end. The new end didn't match perfectly, but you wouldn't know unless you put it side by side with the old one to tell. I haven't had a chance to put it back in, but I think it cost me around $20 plus $10 for postage.
Kevin
 
Can also use a short peice of 1/2 inch pipe sliped over the rear of the cable where is goes through that adjustment bracket. That will effectively make your cable shorter.

Slit it with a hack saw so you can slide it over what you got then squeese together. Nothing needs to come apart.

Hay, the price is right and Spritenut said this was the wey forward.
 
I was thinking about that option Jack - anyone got a pic?
 
No pic, have not done mine yet on Miss Agatha but need too.
 
jlaird said:
..use a short peice of 1/2 inch pipe sliped over the rear of the cable where is goes through that adjustment bracket...
Click to expand...

The problem with that approach is that now the assembly cannot be secured.

If I remember right, the piece of pipe goes between the hollow threaded rod and the bracket. The rod can normally be threaded into the bracket and locked down - but not with the piece of pipe there.

I would love to be proved wrong on this as I need to do something about it as well.

Cheers!
 
Oh I think you are correct big.
 
Sorry to repeat myself, but for all the trouble involved in messing in make shift solutions, I would still suggest getting the cable shortened professionally. For $30 (including postage) you can have it shortened to where you want it and then be done with it.
Kevin
 
It works just fine maybe it was wired tightly so it would be tight against the bracket. Thats what I would try in any case.
 
ichthos said:
Sorry to repeat myself, but for all the trouble involved in messing in make shift solutions, I would still suggest getting the cable shortened professionally. For $30 (including postage) you can have it shortened to where you want it and then be done with it.
Kevin
Click to expand...

But where is the fun in that Kevin? LOL.

Agree, decided to go this route. Thanks.

Did you ever get your TR6 horn(s) figured out?
 
I think you will be happier that you went the route I described. I have so much to do on both cars that I have to just let some things go to the professionals some times when it makes sense to do so.

Didn't touch the TR6 horn because I worked all week on fixing my original bugeye horn. It was in very bad shape. After all that, I found I have a short somewhere in the coil - it started smoking when I hooked it up. I ohmed it ahead of time and was sure it would work well. Now it looks like I get to take it all apart again, buy some new wire, and rewind the coil.
Kevin
 
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