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Strange, but interesting... factory blunders?

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Bremer

Bremer

Jedi Hopeful
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Ok, two things happened recently that I thought I should share.
This is a 59 TR3A.
1. I found that ALL six screws that secure the right rear axle hub bearing housing to the axle were only finger tight. However, the tabs of the lock plates were nicely bent around the screw heads, and it didn't look like they had been bent more than once. I checked the left hand side, and those screws were all tight.
2. When rebuilding the front brake calipers, I had to extract a screw whose head was broken off. I have the "Type A" calipers, and this screw used to retain a triangular plate and the anti-rattle spring. After extracting the screw (which was a pain), I realized that the tapped hole was smaller than the one on the opposite side of the caliper, and also a finer pitch. It appeared to be a 1/4'' UNF, but I didn't have a screw handy to check. The other hole was 5/16'' UNC, as were both tapped holes in the other brake caliper. I went on to drill and tap the correct size thread. I removed virgin metal, not a helicoil.

Anyone experienced similar "What the ..." moments? (with their Triumph cars, I mean).
 
I have found many ring gears on TR6's in the wrong way. The angle for the bendix to make entry would be on the back side.

Wayne
 
Bremer said:
It appeared to be a 1/4'' UNF, but I didn't have a screw handy to check. The other hole was 5/16'' UNC, as were both tapped holes in the other brake caliper. I went on to drill and tap the correct size thread.
Click to expand...
Correct size IS 1/4NF ... someone has 'fixed' it before.
 
trrdster2000 said:
I have found many ring gears on TR6's in the wrong way. The angle for the bendix to make entry would be on the back side.
Click to expand...
Might have something to do with the TR6 not using a Bendix. The TR5/250 did, and there might have been a few very early TR6 built with the Bendix type starter; but the factory books indicate the TR6 only got a pre-engaged starter.
 
TR3driver said:
Bremer said:
It appeared to be a 1/4'' UNF, but I didn't have a screw handy to check. The other hole was 5/16'' UNC, as were both tapped holes in the other brake caliper. I went on to drill and tap the correct size thread.
Click to expand...
Correct size IS 1/4NF ... someone has 'fixed' it before.
Click to expand...

Well, that would explain it... Thanks Randall!
 
I was doing the bushings in the upper wishbone and found that the cotter pin from one of the castellated nuts was missing. After removing the nut I saw why... the hole for the pin was not there either.

Anyone can lose a cotter pin -- takes real doin' to lose the hole.
 
I have also ran into the missing hole issue on my old 1500.
 
I still remember a '74 Spitfire 1500 I had for awhile back in the 1980s. At one point, I was going through the trunk and found a number of Pimiento Red welding (brazing?) rods in a recess. Did I mention that this was a factory Pimiento Red Spitfire? :laugh:
 
For my 59 TR3A (TS35XXX), my ConRods weighed approx 960 grams each and one small end of one ConRod was oversized and had larger OD bush installed. Three replacement rods from three separate engines all weighed 930 grams and could not be balanced with my three heavier rods. Ended up obtaining four new (used) rods from another engine and putting the original heavier rods in storage. My machine shop swears the rod's small end was larger diameter and they felt this was from factory. It was not a replacement bushing problem. Created a lot of pain and mostly delay on my end.
 
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