• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Stopping my exhaust from leaking

mylesw

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Hello

I have had the exhaust of my BT7 off twice now in the hope of stopping it blowing but to avail. Last time I smeared all the joints with an exhaust sealant but that doesn't seem to help. Before I remove the exhaust again (or take it to somebody else to fix) does anyone have any suggestions of how to stop leaks on these exhaust systems?

Thanks

Myles
 
I don't really know. In my experience, a snug fitting joint with AMPLE overlap, & clamped with high quality band type clamps such as Mikalor T bolt clamps, seal very well & don't leak or come apart.

Much better than the common U bolt clamps that crimp the pipe. The clamp must be Mikalor, the common farm type T bolt clamps don't work. The two pipes must be a snug fit before clamping. Maybe you don't have a good fit to start with? The pipes must be on the proper original type flex hangers.

I do know that sealer will never work for long.

You can see the clamps here. There are several USA suppliers, I think.
https://www.powerengineering.co.uk/mikalor/
D
 
Get all the pipes aligned using your clamps, then weld them, leaving the only removable joint where they bolt to the exhaust manifolds.

I'll bet they don't leak then!

exh_002.jpg


exh_012.jpg
 
If you can find the heavy duty u-bolt clamps where the diameter fits your outer pipe exactly, you can tighten them extremely tight with minimal distortion.

The problem is the stamped size on the clamp is actually a bit larger than the diameter of the clamp. For instance, a clamp labeled "1-5/8" is likely to be an exact fit on 1-3/4" muffler tube.

I used the oem-style clamps for a while and they aren't worth a darn.
 
you don't say exactly where it is blowing,from the manifold,a butt joint with gasket or a clamped joint?different problems.
 
Go to Home Depot and pick up a stainless pipe sleeve in plumbing. Picture a 3" cylinder with a slot so it becomes smaller and tighter as it compresses. Slide over the joint. Not only does it cover the joint but also makes the diameter better the clamp sizes.
 
Thanks for your posts and advice, first thing I am going to do is invest in some upgraded clamps. Does anyone know what sizes I would need for my BT7?

Thanks

Myles
 
Myles,
If I were you, I wouldn't trust a measurement from someone else--I'd get under there with my trusty cheapo calipers and measure the diameter of the exhaust pipe for myself, then I'd take them along to the auto parts store and use that measurement to buy the clamps that fit exactly.
 
If you have used the U shaped clamps you may have to get an exhaust spreader form Harbor Freight to get the indentations out to use the better clamps being discussed. There will be ridges which will make pulling the pipes apart and leaks when put back together. The spreader fits into the pipe and can be opened so you can pound out the ridges with the Thor.
 
Yes, I can sympathize with your problem. I first had issues with the rear (right side) exhaust pipe from the manifold down to the muffler not being the correct length. Having solved that problem I found the new band type pipe clamp sold from Moss will work. Very heavy duty. You must REALLY tighten to get it to seal properly but it will work. Don't use the hoop type if you ever want to replace the muffler.

Speaking of exhaust issues, does anyone else agree with me that the original steel type muffler being sold sounds really bad after about a month?
 
Back
Top