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Still with the overheating problem.

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Here is what you need:

UV Leak Detection

Add it to you coolant, run the engine and check all over for a glow :troll: with a UV light.

They have it for oil, fuel, or water based systems! Too cool.

Dan
 
Morris said:
Blown head gasket. Every car I have owned that exhibited the symptoms you describe was a blown head gasket. Honda, Subaru, MG, Ford. All had the exact symptoms you describe and all where a blown head gasket.

On my own car. It took about 3 head gaskets before I finally solved the problem. This is with a shaved head and block, APT head studs and Payen gaskets. The thing that seems to have finally sealed the deal is head gasket sealer spray.
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I know that copper spray work miracles for subarus. I had one of those. Maybe it still is the gasket. I need to pull that head again. It just seems odd that it has the same problem as years ago with a new gasket. Anyways, I am off to Orlando to visit the big mouse for a week starting tomorrow, so I will not be online for a week or so. I might take you up on that head ,livinginthepast, Also I already have some of that dye from when my wife's festiva started losing water and it turned out to be the waterpump under pressure that was leaking. I have the whole kit. Might as well try that and make sure. I forgot I had it until now. Morris, If it were me guessing at someone elses problem I would say head gasket right away, but this one is a little odd. Its not really obvious. Most times with a head gasket leak, you won't go 50 or more miles with 0 symptoms and then it start to get hot. Most of the head gasket leaks I could either detect a slight fog with the hand on the tail pipe, or I could see compression blowing into the cooling system. I had an old Mercedes when I lived in England that actually blew the raidator seems apart with a crack in the cylinder walls. It was a nice car, had twin carbs(with the dashpots) and would still do 90 with that problem.
 
The times that I have had the symptoms you describe, I continued to drive around until I had the more obvious symptoms of a blown head gasket. I am very lazy and it takes some chocolate milk or foggy exhaust to get me to pull a head. :wink:
 
Morris said:
The times that I have had the symptoms you describe, I continued to drive around until I had the more obvious symptoms of a blown head gasket. I am very lazy and it takes some chocolate milk or foggy exhaust to get me to pull a head. :wink:
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I think I am just going to drive it until the warm weather season is over and then pull the head in dead of winter.
 
regularman said:
Morris said:
The times that I have had the symptoms you describe, I continued to drive around until I had the more obvious symptoms of a blown head gasket. I am very lazy and it takes some chocolate milk or foggy exhaust to get me to pull a head. :wink:
Click to expand...
I think I am just going to drive it until the warm weather season is over and then pull the head in dead of winter.
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Good call - there's also a couple MG shops in Orlando if that is a help
 
aeronca65t said:
toysrrus said:
Hi Nial,

I have one of those "MINI" fans in my `59 Bugeye.....
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Nial,

I have to guess the mounting holes for a 948,1275, 1500 are the same? What would the P/N be from Moss or VB?

Thanx Again,

Russ


Russ:

The A-series Mini fan blows "backwards".
If you have it on your Bugeye, it will push air "forward" and not "draw in" air.

As a consequense, you car will run hot or overheat.

You'd probably be better off with no fan.

I would suggest the standard Sprite or Midget four-blade metal fan. Many folks eliminate one of the fan blades on these four-blade fans (they are "stacked" so this is easy to do)). They still seem to work fine with two-blades and it may save a bit of horsepower.
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Russ:

Fan blades are about $22 each. Two required (I'd use just one).

Moss # is 434-550

1500 fan is very different.
 
[/quote]It got pure water right now for the most part, new t stat, same with the old one. [/quote]

Kim, this whole hole thing continues to drive me crazy. I'd like to propose another line of thought. You are running pure water in the rad. according to the calculations I have just done, water at 7 lbs of pressure and compensating for being at 2000 feet of elevation (Asheville) boils at 173.48 deg. Is it possible that the water is simply boiling away because that is what it is supposed to do. Knowing LBC cooling systems it's probably a little optimistic to assume it will be perfectly sealed. Given that the normal operating temp of the engine is in the 180-200 deg range - especially under load. Could there be no problem with the system at all?

Also, was talking to a friend yesterday who has restored 20+ cars. He puts rad stop leak in all of them as part of his rebuilding whether they leak or not. He has not had any problems. I bought some (forget the brand name) for 3.99 tonight.
 
Hi Nial,

I believe that is the fan I have now. I put it back in with the 2 blades coupled together.

This is kind of strange!! Under "Normal" driving cond. at most any speed range; I don`t have a problem.

Its when I go up a "Long" Up Hill grade that the temp. guage just climbs about 20+deg. higher than normal. I know my guage is off to begin with but; Why just going up a hill would increase the temp?

I`m going to check the Timing today & see what that reads.

Thanx for the input,

Russ
 
I removed the T stat yesterday and refilled it with water. Going to see how it acts this weekend. Never thought about the stop leak, Hmmnn. I have always been one to shy away from such things because I fear it may stop up the good stuff instead of the actual leak.
 
WOW! Look at all the choices:

https://www.barsproducts.com/barsleaks_products.htm

I've never used any of these products, but from looking at the list it seems that you need to have a pretty good idea what type of leak it is to know which product to use.
 
Not to be critical or put anyone down, but the calculations done above by JPSmit have the boiling point going in the wrong direction. At an elevation of 2000 ft. the point point of water is about 208.5 deg.F. With added pressure due to the 7 psi radiator cap, the boiling point will be about 238 deg. F. With a 7psi cap and at 2000 ft. elevation, the boiling point in our little ones would be approximately 235 deg. F. Thus even at a indicated (accurate?) tempature of 200 deg. F, there is still plenty of margin prior to boiling.
Scott in CA
 
Going up a long hill increases the working temp of the engine because it is working harder for a longish period.
 
smaceng said:
Not to be critical or put anyone down, but the calculations done above by JPSmit have the boiling point going in the wrong direction. At an elevation of 2000 ft. the point point of water is about 208.5 deg.F. With added pressure due to the 7 psi radiator cap, the boiling point will be about 238 deg. F. With a 7psi cap and at 2000 ft. elevation, the boiling point in our little ones would be approximately 235 deg. F. Thus even at a indicated (accurate?) tempature of 200 deg. F, there is still plenty of margin prior to boiling.
Scott in CA
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no criticism or offense taken - there's a reason I didn't go into math :wall: thanks for clearing it up
 
Wee, and that was some good beer Kim. Here's one to ya.
 
I have used Barsleak before and if you use it for the correct, intended purpose it works very well.
Barsleak ("for 4/8 cyl" and the tablets ONLY) are "waterglass". This is a substance that hardens on contact with carbon-dioxide (CO2). It is used in sandcasting of aluminum parts in sand, mixing the waterglass in the sand until it is wet, shaping it into a mold shape and then hitting it with CO2 (from a fire extinguisher)it hardens to allow the molten aluminum to be poured in.
For this reason it will harden when/where it contacts CO2 (as in from a headgasket leak) but will stay liquid in the radiator and do no harm.
Alumaseal and the Barsleak version with aluminum powder will clog everything up and should be avoided!!
I have used Barsleak and probably will continue to do so when appropriate.
Kim's car sounds like it could use it.

Bill
 
Billm said:
I have used Barsleak before and if you use it for the correct, intended purpose it works very well.
Barsleak ("for 4/8 cyl" and the tablets ONLY) are "waterglass". This is a substance that hardens on contact with carbon-dioxide (CO2). It is used in sandcasting of aluminum parts in sand, mixing the waterglass in the sand until it is wet, shaping it into a mold shape and then hitting it with CO2 (from a fire extinguisher)it hardens to allow the molten aluminum to be poured in.
For this reason it will harden when/where it contacts CO2 (as in from a headgasket leak) but will stay liquid in the radiator and do no harm.
Alumaseal and the Barsleak version with aluminum powder will clog everything up and should be avoided!!
I have used Barsleak and probably will continue to do so when appropriate.
Kim's car sounds like it could use it.

Bill
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I am tempted to use some of that stuff. It goes against my grain but it might work. I just don't want to clog up that brand new radiator.
 
If you use the correct stuff (I would use ONE or TWO tablets-NO MORE) it will not clog your radiator nor cause any other issues but should go a long way toward helping if you have a small head gasket leak or crack in your head- which it sounds like you have.
Bill
 
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