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Still not running!!

vping

Yoda
Silver
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Sorry to keep sounding like a rookie but here is the latest.

Background - I have been starting it and warming it up to temp for the past few weeks while i have been working on my wire wheels & getting new rubber for it. That's done & they look great.

Back to the issue.
Everytime I start it it runs worse & worse. I changed the fuel filter because of how nasty the other looked thinking I might not be getting enough fuel. Even thought it smells like it is running way rich. It had an easier time starting without the choke.

1 - Is this normal?

When I finally got it started, I had to try to keep it running with my foot but with a very sensitve touch to keep it running. At one point I had to keep trying to give it more gas to the point of flooring it. It bogged & bogged & started to stall & bogged until it quit.

The engine bay stinks of gas. Thinking it was rich, I removed to the air cleaner to adjust the mix and I noticed that the back carb was soaked & the little plastic "EL" that is coming out ot the bottom of the carb that connects to the float bowl is leaking bad. It looks like the plastic is cracked where it connects to the flex line that goes to the bowl.

2 - Is this black plastic "EL" replacable.

3 - Are the 2 nuts & spring directly above this "EL" where I lean it out from?

4 - Is this where I should be trying to rectify the problem.

5 - Does this sound like a rich problem?

From some of my other posts I was discussing changing the plug wires and was just about to when I saw the leak.

It was running well enough when I took her out a few weeks ago and though it would only need a tweaking. With the new rubber I was going to try and take it to a local car show today, but no chance now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
This sounds like you're experiencing a flooding condition, which could be related to trouble in the float bowl. Check your floats to make sure they're not cracked and full of gas. If they are, they won't float, which will keep the needle valve open and allow the float bowl to get too much gas. Also check to make sure the needle valve isn't dirty. If dirt makes its way in, it can interfere with the needle valve and cause it not to close, which will also cause a flooding situation.

That tube you mentioned is replaceable. It leads from the bottom of the float bowl to the jet, where the fuel enters the carb and mixes with air in preparation for combustion.

Hope this helps.
 
Yep, flooding for sure.
 
Yep - floats - check 'em. Pull 'em out and see if they're full of gas; you may have a hole in one or both of them.

Mickey
 
Vince, that little plastic "EL" that you describe is part of the jet assembly.
To replace it, you have to replace the entire jet.
The bottom of the two nuts separated by the spring is where the adustments are made. Up to lean it out, down to richen things up.
Jeff
 
I decided to pull the piston out for some reason. These were immaculate when I cleaned & re-placed them. I noticed a sticky film on the them. This was on the butterfly side of the piston. I cleaned them off & replaced them. Could that sticking cause a bogging effect?

I wrapped a rag on the leaking line & fired her up. I adjusted the nuts upward while fiddling with the idle screws. This helped enormously and the car was responsive when I stepped on the gas & not bogging down. I don't know if the "EL" is broken or if the brass piece that goes inside is loose.
The first pic is of the fitting. Is the small brass not supposed to come out & how can I get it to seat firmly back into place?
tn_6-11-06-CarbLeak001.jpg


This pic is of the front adjustment spring. It is much farther out than the rear carb. should they be about equal.
tn_6-11-06-CarbLeak003.jpg

I think I forsee having to spring for a colortune.
 
Vinnie, the brass tube isn't supposed to come out of the plastic. I just tried to take the tube out of 5 different jets, and no go. Replace the jet.
In an ideal world, both jets should be in the bores by a roughly equal amount. Some variation can be expected due to wear and other differences in individual carburetors, but shouldn't be very much.
Change that jet before you burn the thing to the ground.
Jeff
 
~LISTEN TO JEFF!~ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Yup. The tube is part of the jet assembly... shouldn't separate. Replacement indicated, and may as well get two. The only "odd" thing I ever encountered doing the job is that the gland nut at the bowl does not like to have TWO gaskets... In other words: make sure there is no old gasket still stuck in the bowl at the tube fitting before putting the new line in it.
 
I PM'd him to see if he has a few extra. What years fit? All?
 
THE source for 'em is Joe Curto, IMO. Jeff's are diferent as his SU's are *smaller* <snicker>.
 
Really? Fudge! I just PM'd him my address. I hope it was not a scam for junkmail /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif (kidding)
 
Hey, Doc, these jets are out of a pair of HS4's. AUD 135's as a matter of fact. (MGB '66-'71.) The HS2's run the same jet, .090". The .100" jet doesn't come in until the HS6's.
But you're right. The SLUF was a small jet.
Jeff
 
NICE!!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey, Doc, these jets are out of a pair of HS4's. AUD 135's as a matter of fact. (MGB '66-'71.) The HS2's run the same jet, .090". The .100" jet doesn't come in until the HS6's.

[/ QUOTE ]

CHEATER-CHEATER!!!

[ QUOTE ]
But you're right. The SLUF was a small jet.
Jeff

[/ QUOTE ] My bad... I *assumed*... an' all that jazz. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
So I can use these and not have any problems. You guys are losing this rookie.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
WAIT! The ones you have still need replacing...

I said that because reading everything, I got confused & thought you might've also...you can use the same jet, just not your old jet.
 
Yes I am replacing both with used ones that Bugeye58 has so graciously offered me. I should get them in a few and will see how things go.
 
Nice. Good save, Jeff!
 
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