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Tips
Tips

still no clutch : [

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"Obstreperousness"!?!?
 
I had a similar pain in the ass expierience with my clutch. Where it worked a bit, but hardly enough. Both the slave and master cylinder were rebuilt, still the same. I ended up doing a method I read about on the internet. Put a plastic bag over the top of the master cylinder resevoir, and replace the cap (this has to be completely sealed). Then pump the pedal 50+ times as fast as you can. Remove the bag, and it should work. This method has worked for me perfectly on 2 separate occasions.
 
I know someone who has used the method that TimD described, so it must do some good. I've used a Mityvac (vacuum bleeder) myself, but it takes two steps for me because the clutch hose on a 1500 makes an arch that goes higher than the master cylinder, so there's an air pocket that collects there no matter what you do. Once the slave is bled, I've just pushed hard on the clutch pedal several times (haven't needed the plastic over the cap), and bled the slave again. The air pocket in the translucent clutch hose is gone after I've pushed the pedal hard a few times. I've never figured out whether that air pocket gets displaced to the slave, or if it gets sucked back down to the master when you release the pedal. Anyway, my $0.02 on clutch bleeding, and yes, it seems to be a pain no matter which vintage of Spridget you have.
 
Be sure to bleed the master cylinder end of the system as well as the slave cylinder side.
Have an assistant pump the pedal up and down at least ten times and hold down. Loosen the coupling from the line to the clutch master cylinder until brake fluid oozes out (this is basically the same way I bleed the slave cylinder). Be sure that the assistant does not release the pedal until the hose coupling is retightened. Do this several times.
As I read you comments, it still seems like you have air in the system....or you would feel a bit more pedal resistance than you have described.

Note: Once, I tried to bleed a clutch and, as most of you know, the battery is very near the steel line as it goes down to the slave cylinder. The battery corrosion had made the *tiniest* pinhole in the steel line, making proper bleeding impossible. Almost drove me crazy until I noticed it.
 
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My remedy was putting a clear line on the slave cylinder nipple and running it up and over, into the can.

Then I pump the pedal VIGOROUSLY (3 X/sec.) with my hand until I can feel fluid start to move. (then another 100 times after that to clear bubbles

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sound like a good idea maybe....
im gonna check my hydrualics again then raise the rear with stands and try the braking method....sound good everyone?! :nuts .....zzziimmmy
 
Don't mean to be "captain obvious" here, but can't you just jamb the clutch arm back and see if it releases? Then you know if the hydraulics are the problem.
 
He said earlier that it was moveing half an inch??????
 
That is usually enough unless the clutch arm is bent.
 
i push on the slave pushrod with the pedal down...if it resist good then there is "obviously" pressure there eh?
it does come out so i assume its working.....gonna test again though before i start the other stuff....
 
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