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still no clutch.....boohoo

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Good hevens Zimmy. Well easy enough to grind the new end back to orginal length.

Is that a new clutch disk when you rebuilt the engine?
 
There is no factory adjustment for the clutch on these cars, therefore a little welding or cutting of the slave pushrod works for adjustment. (usually welding) However you might have another problem, since welding the rod doesn't do the trick. These "diaphram" type clutches can break a "finger" and drag. At that diagnosis, there isn't anything to do except pull the engine and replace the pressure plate. It's nice to be sure first. Sometimes you can look into the bell housing with a light and maybe a mirror, and look at the pressure plate for a broken finger.
 
It seems to me that if the piston/rod is moving properly when the clutch is depressed that is the only answer at this point.

Pull the engine, sigh.
 
piman said:
Hello Zimmy,

From your later response you have what is called 'drag', not slip, the two are opposite in meaning.

As I said in my earlier post,
"If so the first check is for freeplay of the slave pushrod, about 1\8" or so, if you have none that is the problem."

I repeat, check the free play, it now sounds as if yours is excessive, and then adjust to achieve about 1\8" clearance. By the way it is essential that there is some free play. Also be sure that the slave cylinder is correctly positioned, i.e. not fitted on the wrong side of its mounting. (Not sure about your Midget but this is possible on some cars.)

Alec
Click to expand...
I think Doc. made a good point as far as wear at the pedal pivot point having an effect. It definitly sounds like a "free play problem"
Free play should be 5/32 (approx.4mm) according to my sources!! (not really that much difference) But DO check the free play, as it is critical!!!
 
racingenglishcars said:
These "diaphram" type clutches can break a "finger" and drag.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what happened to me, tried everything under the sun to avoid pulling the engine, but in the end it was a broken "finger" and required a new clutch.
 
zimmy said:
i extended the slave push arm...didnt help at all....hmmmm.
Click to expand...

And you checked the actuating rod/clevis pin/pedal end for wear and found it okay?
 
Okay, another thing to check before resigning yourself to pulling the unit: Get a helper to sit in, push and hold the clutch to the board. MEASURE how far the slave extends the rod. Next have the helper pump the pedal four or five times and hold it to the board again. MEASURE how far the slave extends the rod. ~IF~ the second measurement increases over the "push once and hold" measurement, you still have air in the system.
 
I've got to work on my clutch next week. Some bonehead previous owner used a grade 8 bolt for a pin. the threads cut into the pedal and yoke like a saw. So... i'm putting in a whole new replacement MC and I guess I'll weld up and drill the clutch pedal if I can't find a decent one in my parts pile.
 
That's been a common discovery over the years here, too. Usually very conscientiously DOUBLE NUTTED for "safety"!?!

See my "respect" tretise in the "Articles" section .
 
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