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Still in Asytole [better known as no spark]

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Mack

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Another question from me about no spark, I'm pretty sure I've got a bad coil, but to make sure can someone help me to make sure my connections are correct. Specificaly, wire colors to the + - side of the coil, and same to the ballast resistor, if looking at it with the mounting hole at the 6 o'clock position. The car is a '76B with points. Thanks a bunch, nice weather is approaching quickly, not to mention St. Patrick's Day (parades!!) Mack /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
You didn't rule out PEA or EMD? Seriously, Mack, there are several causes for no spark.If your points are gapped too wide, you won't get spark. Points not opening/not closing? Points dirty, pitted or burned? Also could be defective condenser or it's shorting out to ground. Then check spark advance...could be too far advanced. Plug gap too wide? Check primary cicuit connections to see if they're loose or could be grounded. Rotor button in good shape/correct size? Plug wires defective? High tension wire to coil defective? Then test coil for resistence.
 
But what we don't know is was it driven till it was parked for the winter?

If so, I go with coil or condencer.
 
I don't know '76 Bs but the Lucas wiring color should be something like a "pink" wire from the ignition switch to the (+) terminal on the coil. Also on coil (+) should be a wire going to the starter solenoid, sorry, not sure of the color but I think it's the only other wire on coil (+). There should be a black/white wire from coil (-) to the dizzy.

There's a troubleshooting table in my PDF:
https://home.mindspring.com/~purlawson/files/LucasPointsIgnitions.pdf
that may help you trace where you're loosing spark.
 
What's the number of your distributor? Is it one of the OPUS distributors (45DE3)? If so, it was "notoriously troublesome & unreliable"....
 
[ QUOTE ]
I don't know '76 Bs but the Lucas wiring color should be something like a "pink" wire from the ignition switch to the (+) terminal on the coil.

[/ QUOTE ]

I thought I had the "pink" wire car - hehehehe.
 
The dizzy is a 45D type on my '76B. With points. The car was running fine. When I put the car up for the winter, I start it up and bring fluids up to temp, work the gear box and clutch and move it back and forth in the garage. It was durring one of these warm ups the car just quit. Fuel is good, and I have 12-13 volts(same as battery) at the coil with the ignition on. I have ordered a new coil, condensor,rotor and points. The plug wires and cap only have one summer on them. I hope these will take care of the problem. Thanks for your input. Mack /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Make sure to clean all the connectors in that area, and the ones on both of the relays too. That'll help eliminate some of the electrical gremlins.
 
Kind of makes ya wonder if anything is comming out of the coil.
 
My personal "Step One" would be set up the timing mark to 8* before, yank the dizzy out, dress the points and gap 'em... Stuff that puppy back in and static time it.

Game Over. VROOM!

If no VROOM!, "Step Two": Ohm the coil, swap out the condenser.
 
you could have a bad alternator..like i had when mine died..is your battery dead maybe?
i just rebuilt my whole electrical section under the hood of my midget....check out the spridget section.....zimmy
 
Another question. I pulled the distributor out of what I thought is my '76B. The question is I thought a 76 would have the 45D series distributor, but near the vacume advance the number 25 is cast. I assume from the number and matching shop manual photos the distributor is of earlier vintage and my car is not a 76, I'll have to check the VIN on the engine and body VIN. I assume I should use parts for the 25D since this is obviously the dizzy I have. Thanks Mack /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Don't rely on the Vin#, my car is a 1977 model, and has a 25D4 dizzy. Originally, they came with an Opus electronic Distributor, (45De3?) But they were worse than trying to select each cylinder to fire, while you were driving, with a switch. So most of them were replaced with an earlier points dizzy. You prolly have a 25D4 like me.
 
To my mind the 25D's are a bullet-proof dizzy. The electronic ones are great when they work, but a bit pricey to repair when compared to a spare set of points 'n condenser in the glovebox... and it'll get you home again. The towing business has really benefitted from electronics in cars. BAH!
 
I've a 25D in place of a failed 45OPUS. I love it due to it's simplicity if nothing else. Just have to remember that the parts aren't standard when ordering replacements.
JC
 
The 25D4 is a readily available points dizzy. If you look on the body you should find a five (5) digit number stamped somewhere along with a four (4) digit date code. You can use the five digit information to look up the origins of your dizzy (25D4 and others) in Marcel's dizzy database.

See:
https://www.planet.eon.net/~chichm/
and go to the tech pages link. The PDF data base will be the third link down.
 
Yeah, and new points for less than $10 is a nice touch too.
 
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