• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Still arguing with HC emissions

goloch

Senior Member
Offline
Hi all. Now that I've returned from the black hole that is the end of April/beginning of May for a middle school band director (two concerts and two field trips with 200+ kids in two weeks) I have a chance to work on my 71 B again. Back in mid-April I managed to get everything through NJ inspection except for HC emissions (lowest reading was 1152, needs to be under 500). The air pump was removed by a PO so that's likely working against me but I'm stubborn and want to try to pass as is.

I found a few articles online that suggested increasing the clearances on the exhaust valves by as much as .010" to lower HC at the expense of increased NOx. NJ doesn't test for NOx so it seems like a viable solution. I already tried leaning the carbs and retarding the timing, but apparently went too far and had so many misfires I actually increased the HC to over 2200. I'm hoping that a more judicious leaning/retarding combined with the valves will do the trick. Just curious if anyone has attempted such a "fix" and with what kind of results. I still need to fully inspect the ELC vapor lines and I'm contemplating replacing the charcoal canister; do I just have no chance if that stuff isn't working right? The combination of nice weather and lack of inspection sticker is really starting to get on my nerves. The Subaru is nice and all; it just has too much roof for me when it's 70 degrees and sunny. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Unfortunately, you may have to put the AIR pump back on. The A..I..R.. in AIR pump actually means Air Injection Reaction. This Site, explains how the system works in specifcally reducing HC's.
 
Not really a solution, but your car is eligble for two types of "historic" license plates in NJ. The regular ones and the new "collector" classification (I *think* that's what they call it).
The regular plates limit you to 2000 miles per year but you also must be using your car for display or shows only and is only to be used in the daytime. There is no vehicle inspection of any kind for this class....just pay your money to the DMV and start driving.
The newer historic class of plates still limits you to 2000 miles per year but you are allowed to use the car for any purpose and may drive it at night. The catch is that you must go to the state inspection station once a year to have mileage verified (nothing else is inspected). The newer class uses a triangular-shaped inspection sticker.
If you drive the car less than 2000 miles a year, this might be a good option. You will save quite a bit on insurance too.
 
I,m about to rip off my air pump, but coffee break time I read this post. I just called my inspection station,said Im OK, no tail pipe test on my 76 midget. He asked if there was a "unleaded gas only" anywhere on the car,... I do not see one. Is each state deferent?
 
Yep, each state is different. Here in Ohio any car older than 25 years is automatically exempt from emissions testing, so I just have regular plates on my Midget. The historic plates were a little too restrictive. Instead of ripping off the air pump, why not just take the belt off? That way, if you ever needed to pass an emissions requirement you aren't stuck.
 
I managed to get my '76 B to pass California emissions testing with a dead AIR Pump (barely passed... was within 0.05 of the limit for CO emissions), but all the plumbing was present. The fact that everything was hooked up and all the plumbing was working correctly (PLUMBING not the pump itself) may have helped me pass, but I had to lean out the mixture so much that it was nearly undriveable. Kicker is I didn't think to check the functionality of my pump til after I had already passed the test.

The inspector passed my car on the visual inspection because my pump did not seize up. Instead, it's been periodically throwing bits of carbon into my anti-backfire/gulp valve causing it to get stuck open. All the while the pulley on it continues to spin normally, and as a result it visually appears to be working.

So, my experience says it's possible to pass emissions testing with malfunctioning emissions equipment, but I have no idea if it's possible with missing emissions equipment.
 
This is why I'm glad I live in Michigan. No emissions tests to speak of. Working for Audi, emissions are a pain the tailpipe. Had California once do a test at the i/m station, the car passed, but becuse the sticker saying "meets california emissions requirements" was not present, they wouldn't let the car be registered.

Brad
 
LOL...I've never visited California, and I'm sure most of the people are ok, but with all of the laws and legislation, I'm still under the impression (more at certain times..like after dealing with their DMV) that we should like the CA border with explosives and have it break off and float away, becoming another country. <evil grin>

Brad
 
[ QUOTE ]
LOL...I've never visited California, and I'm sure most of the people are ok, but with all of the laws and legislation, I'm still under the impression (more at certain times..like after dealing with their DMV) that we should like the CA border with explosives and have it break off and float away, becoming another country. <evil grin>

Brad

[/ QUOTE ]

TSK TSK TSK! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif

I think Mother Nature will eventually take care of that with earthquakes!

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Thank goodness for Connecticut. No restrictions on Antique plates (other than 25 years old or older) - when I asked at the DMV they told me that the restrictions were up to the insurance company. No emissions testing for 'em either.
 
Back
Top