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Stereo and a Headlight

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Webb Sledge

Webb Sledge

Jedi Warrior
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Three questions:

1: I recently replaced my old Alpine tape player in the 6 with a Pioneer cd unit after the power cable got wrapped around the exposed drive shaft while pushing the car out of a garage and ripped to pieces. Besides the speaker and antennae wires, there are 3 others I'm concerned with: constant power, which I've got coming straight from the battery, unfused like it's supposed to be, a ground which is hooked up, and an accessory wire that would be getting power when the key is in the ACC position, which my ignition doesn't have. I hooked up the ground and the power from the battery properly, but the thing still won't come on. Do I need the ACC wire hooked up to the ON position on the key (rather then ACC, since it doesn't have an ACC position), or should it work off the battery alone?

2: Took the 6 to school today, got in, and the left headlight decided it didn't want to work on low beams, but it did work on high. Is this just a worn out lamp like I suspect, or should I be looking for a disconnected ground/power wire?

3: My amp gauge goes crazy on me every once in a while. It flicks back and forth like I had a turn signal on, but instead of moving 1/8th of an inch, it's swinging way across the gauge without a signal on. It seems to do this more often on left turns... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif I'm thinking it's a faulty flasher unit, since I hear clicking like the signals make whenever this happens. Thoughts?
 
The stereo is easy. Yes, attach the acc lead to the "on" position of the ign. switch. the radio will not work until this is connected. if you have the instructions for the radio it probably says to connect that lead to "switched" power. That just means power that turns off with the key. You can attach the acc. lead to the battery if you want, but then you have to make sure to turn the radio off when you shut the car off.
The other problems are a little foggier without being able to look at them. Sorry. I think your on the right track with the headlight. good luck Guv'na
 
Actually, I think on most modern aftermarket stereos the constant hot from the battery is to power the stereos memory only. The key switched hot line, which would run to an accessory terminal, is the main power for the unit. The stereo should work without the battery line hooked up, you just won't be able to save station presets or keep the time. Since this is a very low draw there is usually no fuse needed.

SOunds like a bad headlight, just from what you've described. try a new one, if thats not the case then at least you've got a spare and you'll eventually need one.

No clue on the gauge issue, never seen that on mine.
 
Webb, get your hands on a copy of Dan Masters' book on Triumph electricals (danmas@aol.com). Sounds as if I work for Dan. I don't, but the book is invaluable. Now, for the stereo. Can you really hear that thing with the Monzas roaring? I had to abandon my whole system because my 58-year-old ears just couldn't hear the darn thing, boost and all. Ah to be youthful! Seriously, the electrical book will walk you through any and all problems. Dan is good at fixing old gauges and not just replacing everything. Good luck.

Bill
 
Webb, if your left headlamp is goofy, and your ammeter sometimes goes wild on left turns, I'd be having a real hard look at the LF wires. Expect you'll find either a very bad ground up there, or perhaps some sort of 'cross over' circuit that is joining the turn signal lamp to the headlamp. So, when you turn on the h/l, you're also turning on both left turns, and when you try the left turns, are powering also the left h/l. Have fun searching and let us know.
 
Hello, Webb, long time no see!

Anyway, I have a suggestion that may help you immensely if you intend to keep your six for awhile: clean up the under-dash wiring!

Lots of these cars have been "altered" electrically by P.O.s and the wiring under the dash looks like an electrical heck. Also, some LBCs are downright dangerous in there. My GT6 was, if you'll recall.

Simply get a good wiring diagram (Joe has one) and rewire it all. You can do it in a day or two, and it will solve a lot of future headaches.

BTDT. I hope this helps, good luck!
 
Webb,

I had the same full scale deflection happen to me on my 1970 TR-6 when operating the turn signals from time to time. It turned out to be a bad flasher unit. I found this out the hard way, as the ammeter pegged to one side one night (full discharge) after making a turn and the next thing I smelled was smoke from under the dash! The darn thing melted my turn signal/hazard switch wiring harness and luckily I had a quick disconnect battery cable! I'd replace that flasher right away and check the wiring leads for any signs of overheating (melted insulation, etc). Good luck!

Mark
 
Ok, my 2 problems are semi-solved. Dotanukie was right about the connection straight from the battery being for memory only. The ignition wire is the real power source. And the amp gauge flipping out was indeed the flasher unit I had suspected. It finally died on me yesterday and now I've got no turn signals. My headlight problem sounds like a good excuse to get some new Silverstars!

Mark, I guess you haven't seen my car in a while, but when we rebuilt the engine, it got a new front harness too. No more mess!
 
I think you'll like the SilverStars,......I do /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Where did you get them? Autozone didn't have them. And how much were they? I think the ones Autozone had were 7" Sylvanias, but not Silverstars and they were about $14 each.
 
I got mine at Advance Auto Parts. I don't remember how much $$$,....that was last summer, and I can't remember what I had for dinner yesterday /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Did I read "unfused" Webb? If Pioneer elected not to fuse a yellow memory lead it's because they are cutting costs.
I'd fuse that lead - low load or not. If you don't like the appearance, tie it into a pre-existing hot lead. The small load won't add any burden to the harness.
 
No, I believe the yellow is what's supposed to be coming from the ON position, and that IS fused. The red coming hot off the battery is not fused and that's just memory. I've thought about fusing it, but they say it's OK right off the battery, so I'm not going to bother. Maybe a bad choice, maybe not. We'll see..

Got my SilverStars! WOW! What a difference! Those things are seriously bright; gotta love 'em. Only thing is it took me 10 minutes to realize you could get the bulb out without adjusting the beam position or taking the whole unit out. As is typical for me, I look at the directions after I've exhausted all other options.

Now I've just gotta get my starter fixed...again...and stop the 3 different leaks! Oh boy...
 
From where did you get the SilverStars?
 
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