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Steering wheel
- Thread starter 2pm
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If the wheel is on a non-adjustable column they can be very difficult. I suggest that you rig up some kind of puller such as shown in the shop manual.
D
D
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Hi 2pm, Blast the thing off!. There is a penetrating oil called "PB Blaster", which can be obtained from most discount auto supply stores. Apply it liberally around the shaft to wheel joint.Grab the wheel with both hands and using a very forceful pull in conjunction with a wiggling motion free the wheel. This may require repeated applications of penetrant and your forceful effort. If you have no intentions of reusing this wheel a few good hammer blows may help. A good wheel puller as has been mentioned can also be employed .-FWIW---Keoke
Hi 2pm, Blast the thing off!. There is a penetrating oil called "PB Blaster", which can be obtained from most discount auto supply stores. Apply it liberally around the shaft to wheel joint.Grab the wheel with both hands and using a very forceful pull in conjunction with a wiggling motion free the wheel. This may require repeated applications of penetrant and your forceful effort. If you have no intentions of reusing this wheel a few good hammer blows may help. A good wheel puller as has been mentioned can also be employed .-FWIW---Keoke
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Keoke,
I had a wheel on a non-adjustable column that I "should" have used a puller on. The wheel was free on the splines for about 1/2", then refused to move further. I bounced it up & down for about an hour, tugged, pulled, hit the back side with a large rubber hammer.
Finally I was so mad that I cut the hub through to the splines with a cutoff wheel. It still wouldn't pull off. Had to make another cut & force the two halves apart with a chisel. There was a heavy burr all around the bottom of the hub splines which "might" have straightened out if I had used a puller. Anybody want a stock style wheel with no center hub? What ever you do, don't damage the shaft splines or it's very delicate threaded end.
A puller needs a mandrel to go down into the thicker tapered shoulder in the hollow steering shaft. The thread end of the shaft won't take puller pressure without damaging the thin end thread. Also, don't hammer on the nut. The puller needs to pull from the back side of the wheel as there is no other place to pull from. Kind of complicated, which is why I didn't use a puller in the first place.
And - That's why my car now has a new Derrington style wheel & hub. And likely, why the factory suggested a puller.
D
I had a wheel on a non-adjustable column that I "should" have used a puller on. The wheel was free on the splines for about 1/2", then refused to move further. I bounced it up & down for about an hour, tugged, pulled, hit the back side with a large rubber hammer.
Finally I was so mad that I cut the hub through to the splines with a cutoff wheel. It still wouldn't pull off. Had to make another cut & force the two halves apart with a chisel. There was a heavy burr all around the bottom of the hub splines which "might" have straightened out if I had used a puller. Anybody want a stock style wheel with no center hub? What ever you do, don't damage the shaft splines or it's very delicate threaded end.
A puller needs a mandrel to go down into the thicker tapered shoulder in the hollow steering shaft. The thread end of the shaft won't take puller pressure without damaging the thin end thread. Also, don't hammer on the nut. The puller needs to pull from the back side of the wheel as there is no other place to pull from. Kind of complicated, which is why I didn't use a puller in the first place.
And - That's why my car now has a new Derrington style wheel & hub. And likely, why the factory suggested a puller.
D