• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Steering wheel removal.

sp53

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Steering wheel removal is difficult. Removing those grub screws on this old car might mean drilling them out. The screw is 3/16 fine thread with a point on the end. Perhaps if I drill a 1/8 hole and luckily come out in the center of the screw that would knock out the center point of the screw enough free it and to let the control head slid out.

I was hoping I could pull and wiggle the control head free from the grub screws. The nut and olive are removed and the head spins freely like the stator tub is broken, but when I turn the control head around the wires move with it like the stator tube is still in one piece and the screw tips are rounded. Has anyone had luck at drilling those small screws out, or better yet thought of a way to get the control head out somehow. Any suggestions would be great.

steve
 
I just went through this...
One of the first things I learned was that those small screws used a very small flat head screwdriver - they are not an allen head screw. The slot in the screw head is very small/thin so the only way to get a good grip is to use a screw driver that is thin. BTW... if you order replacements from Moss they will be allen head set screws which might make it confusing down the road if you mix and match.
Once I got the screws out I had to pry with even force around the traficator base until it started to wiggle and ease it out. I guess it sounds like you are on the right track just keep moving forward.
Joel
 
I just went through this...
One of the first things I learned was that those small screws used a very small flat head screwdriver - they are not an allen head screw. The slot in the screw head is very small/thin so the only way to get a good grip is to use a screw driver that is thin. BTW... if you order replacements from Moss they will be allen head set screws which might make it confusing down the road if you mix and match.
Once I got the screws out I had to pry with even force around the traficator base until it started to wiggle and ease it out. I guess it sounds like you are on the right track just keep moving forward.
Joel
I do believe that those screws are in the bakelite material. They are not embedded in metal. Getting them out should not be that hard. Again use a small flat screw driver try sharpening the screw driver a bit and apply good pressure.
Charley
 
Sharpening may be in order for the screw driver. However, we tend to use a grinder, the heat from which softens the metal, and we tend to make the tip too thin. Start with a very small craftsman or other quality screwdriver (1/8 inch) and narrow it a BIT with a file. If it is not sharp enough, thin it with a file. Make sure the slots in the grubs are free of paint, dirt, etc. I would drill only as a last resort. Unlike Charley, I recall that the screws are threaded into the metal hub of the steering wheel and their tapered points just push down on a plate built into the trafficator.
Bob
 
One of my best buys was a screw extractor set. The drills are left hand, so frequently they catch the screw and back it out...negating the need to drill all the way through.
 
Back
Top