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Steering wheel offset

Goldie

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During restoration and a realignment of the front end, my steering wheel (Moto Lita) is off about 10 degrees. How complicated is it to actually get it straight. Can I pull the horn hub and move the wheel mounting hub or am I into pulling the entire trafficator assembly.
 
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Adjustable or non-adjustable wheel? If it's adjustable, and you have enough slack in the wiring you should be able to pull the hub out a few inches, remove the snap ring and replace the wheel (make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead before pulling it). With a non-adjustable wheel you have to loosen the olive and pull the whole stator tube, and you'll lose most or all of your steering box fluid, so you might as well drain if first. Also, the non-adjustable wheels are secured with a large nut, and you need to be able to put a socket on it.
 
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Goldie

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Its adjustable but the locking ring is on so tight I can't move it. I think it is reverse thread but not sure. I don't want to force it and make it tighter. The guy that restored it had never done a big healey--only triumphs and MG's.
 
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My experience is with exactly two Healeys: My BN2 is non-adjustable and has a large nut securing the wheel, and my BJ8 has an adjustable wheel. I always assumed the adjustable wheels had the snap ring and the non-adjustable the nut, but I've not worked on any of the intervening cars. If it's a nut, it's probably right-hand thread; the only LHT's I know of on a Healey are the hubs/knockoffs on one side of the car, and on the 100s one of the knurled knobs securing the foldable windshield it LHT. I don't know how you'd make an adjustable wheel with a lock nut, but maybe someone else can chime in here.
 

John Turney

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Its adjustable but the locking ring is on so tight I can't move it. I think it is reverse thread but not sure. I don't want to force it and make it tighter. The guy that restored it had never done a big healey--only triumphs and MG's.

When you're sitting in the driver's seat, turn the locking nut clockwise to loosen it. It's a right-hand thread.
 

Rob Glasgow

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Bob provided the correct procedure. After you've loosened the wheel locking ring, loosen the 3 grub screws on the wheel hub and pull up the entire trafficator mechanism. Now push the wheel all the way down on the streering shaft to expose and remove the snap ring. Now you can pull the wheel off the shaft enough to move it right of left one thread which should be about 10 degrees.
Unfortunately my wheel is off only about 5 degrees, so if I reposition it one spline notch left or right, the center spoke is still not straight up. I guess I'll need to mess with the tie rod setting to get it perfect.
 

GregW

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the only LHT's I know of on a Healey are the hubs/knockoffs on one side of the car, and on the 100s one of the knurled knobs securing the foldable windshield it LHT.
My comment is useless to this thread, but the right door check strap has a left hand nut (and bolt).
 

Rob Glasgow

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Bob, I've always thought the design of the door check mechanisms was a brilliant, low tech solution and the guy who came up with that was a genius. I've wondered if it was used on other cars besides the Healey. Anyone know? Sorry to step on this thread.
 

Jack T

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If it's a nut, it's probably right-hand thread; the only LHT's I know of on a Healey are the hubs/knockoffs on one side of the car, and on the 100s one of the knurled knobs securing the foldable windshield it LHT.

Add the nut on the input shaft of the gearbox.
 
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