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I'm thinking of tackling my steering wheel issue now that I'e decided to replace the stator tube I may as well do that at the same time. Here is the story: One winter a few years ago I pulled the steering box out and brought it inside on the bench to take it apart. I found that the worm gear had a few pieces missing but I did have a spare shaft with a good worm gear. I replaced the adjuster peg as well that goes in the shaft Inside the box I found a bearing that did not look stock but appeared to very similar to the original....I guess the PO ;who had been in there before me, found that the original bearings were not available. I see that Moss now has them if I rebuild again. I left that non original bearing in there. I am not 100% certain I got the end float right??? Anyway the issue now is the car tracks straight when I take my hands off the wheel with little wander. Problem is you can wiggle the wheel from side to side about 3" to 4" and from reading previous posts about this it should only move about 1.5 to 2". Also when driving straight ahead the wheel is off center about 8 degrees. Tried centering a few times with no luck. I read in one of the posts by John on here that It's better to get the wheel centered with the front end components disconnected. I will try that. Is it possible to install the steering box arm (pitman) onto the box in the wrong place? Does the end float affect slop in the steering wheel in any way? Can the box be disasembled in place with front cowl off if I want to take it apart to install a new bearing or am I further ahead to have it on the bench. Any advice welcome. Karl
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TR2/3/3A Steering wheel and box question......
- Thread starter karls59tr
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In my opinion the rebuild of a steering box is not DIY friendly. If you are committed to the OE box I would
recommend taking it to a pro. They often need a new worm gear press fitted to the shaft.The shaft is easily
bent and the worm will not turn straight and true. " It's not heck but ya can see it from there"
Mad dog
recommend taking it to a pro. They often need a new worm gear press fitted to the shaft.The shaft is easily
bent and the worm will not turn straight and true. " It's not heck but ya can see it from there"
Mad dog
I did not know that the shaft was easily bent. Thanks for the info.
Online
This is a great upgrade for removing some slack in the steering.
Often the worm gear wears in The middle ie straight ahead. If you adjust this its tight on the turns.
This spring loaded modification
helps
There is a LHD part too
Often the worm gear wears in The middle ie straight ahead. If you adjust this its tight on the turns.
This spring loaded modification
helps
There is a LHD part too
TOP PLATE STEERING BOX TR2-3B RHD
This cover is for RHD Fitment (steering wheel on right hand side when sitting in the car ) and incorporates a spring-loaded pin, which keeps the rocker pin firmly in contact with the scroll, thus removing unwanted 'slop' from the steering. This plate can also be used on some AC models for Left...
www.revingtontr.com
CJD
Yoda
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Hey Karl.
You could do this in the car, but it would be more difficult in the end...at least in my opinion. Setting the box up is not difficult, but it must be done in a particular order. Here is a step by step...I'll start with the box apart and going back together.
1) Install the new roller bearings on each side of the worm gear and insert the assembly back into the box.
2) Install the end cap back on the box, including new gaskets and all the shims you have. Slowly tighten the screws until fully seated. At this point check the stiffness you have when turning the steering shaft. You should feel a bit of drag, but not so much that the shaft feel difficult to turn. If is spins easily, then you should remove one of the shims and try again. Keep removing shims until you get the cap on with noticeable drag, but not more than about 10-20 inch lbs...to give you a target. Remove the shaft
3) Once you have the shim stack set up in step 3, you can now use locktite 518 sealant on all the shims, gaskets, and metal...and reassemble the end cap permanently. Of course, double check your work. There should be no end play on the shaft, it should turn with no more than10-20 inch lbs of torque...up a hair from your check without the pitman installed.
4) Inspect your peg in the steering arm and either turn or replace it if it is noticeably worn.
5) Replace the seal for the pitman shaft where it exits the case...check the shaft area the seal rides on the shaft to ensure it is not scored badly. You can then insert the pitman assembly into the box and install the cover with the adjuster nut, using a new gasket and Loctite 518.
6) Now you must find center. Turn the steering shaft to one stop and mark it on the steering tube. Turn it to the other stop, counting the revolutions from stop to stop. Turn back exactly halfway and mark the shaft on the tube
7) Final step...carefully set and lock the adjuster nut on the cover until, as you rock the steering shaft back and forth across the center position you feel an increased drag. It should be noticeable, but not so much that you cannot turn the shaft by hand, without using any tools for leverage.
Note) If you don't have a single point of drag at the center position...in other words you feel more than one "bump" as you rotate past center...then the worm gear is excessively worn.
8) You can install the pitman arm. There should be a mark on both the shaft and the arm to locate it in the proper position. If not, then center the gear and install the arm at a perfect 90 degrees.
There is a final step after everything is installed in the car. You must lift the front wheels off the ground and turn the wheel to each stop. At the left stop, set the steering stop on the left suspension to just under full travel. Turn to the right stop and set the right suspension stop just inside the limit.
Hope this helps...
You could do this in the car, but it would be more difficult in the end...at least in my opinion. Setting the box up is not difficult, but it must be done in a particular order. Here is a step by step...I'll start with the box apart and going back together.
1) Install the new roller bearings on each side of the worm gear and insert the assembly back into the box.
2) Install the end cap back on the box, including new gaskets and all the shims you have. Slowly tighten the screws until fully seated. At this point check the stiffness you have when turning the steering shaft. You should feel a bit of drag, but not so much that the shaft feel difficult to turn. If is spins easily, then you should remove one of the shims and try again. Keep removing shims until you get the cap on with noticeable drag, but not more than about 10-20 inch lbs...to give you a target. Remove the shaft
3) Once you have the shim stack set up in step 3, you can now use locktite 518 sealant on all the shims, gaskets, and metal...and reassemble the end cap permanently. Of course, double check your work. There should be no end play on the shaft, it should turn with no more than10-20 inch lbs of torque...up a hair from your check without the pitman installed.
4) Inspect your peg in the steering arm and either turn or replace it if it is noticeably worn.
5) Replace the seal for the pitman shaft where it exits the case...check the shaft area the seal rides on the shaft to ensure it is not scored badly. You can then insert the pitman assembly into the box and install the cover with the adjuster nut, using a new gasket and Loctite 518.
6) Now you must find center. Turn the steering shaft to one stop and mark it on the steering tube. Turn it to the other stop, counting the revolutions from stop to stop. Turn back exactly halfway and mark the shaft on the tube
7) Final step...carefully set and lock the adjuster nut on the cover until, as you rock the steering shaft back and forth across the center position you feel an increased drag. It should be noticeable, but not so much that you cannot turn the shaft by hand, without using any tools for leverage.
Note) If you don't have a single point of drag at the center position...in other words you feel more than one "bump" as you rotate past center...then the worm gear is excessively worn.
8) You can install the pitman arm. There should be a mark on both the shaft and the arm to locate it in the proper position. If not, then center the gear and install the arm at a perfect 90 degrees.
There is a final step after everything is installed in the car. You must lift the front wheels off the ground and turn the wheel to each stop. At the left stop, set the steering stop on the left suspension to just under full travel. Turn to the right stop and set the right suspension stop just inside the limit.
Hope this helps...
Hi,
Before you dig into the steering box, its worth checking to see if the steering wheel is tight. I had a 1"-2" slope from a loose steering wheel. Its easy to check if you have a split steering column. Hold the cast iron connecter between the two shafts tight and wiggle the wheel. If there is any play that needs to get fixed. I had rebuilt my steering box and was replacing the bushings on both shafts when I found it.
Good luck, Roy
Before you dig into the steering box, its worth checking to see if the steering wheel is tight. I had a 1"-2" slope from a loose steering wheel. Its easy to check if you have a split steering column. Hold the cast iron connecter between the two shafts tight and wiggle the wheel. If there is any play that needs to get fixed. I had rebuilt my steering box and was replacing the bushings on both shafts when I found it.
Good luck, Roy
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If only they had used a recirculating ball steering.Worm and peg was obsolete by 1950.
If some body sold a worm on shaft assy, the rest is DIY for sure.
I recommend packing the lower 1/2 of the box with wheel bearing grease, topping up with 70/90
The grease keeps the oil inside the box.
Mad dog
If some body sold a worm on shaft assy, the rest is DIY for sure.
I recommend packing the lower 1/2 of the box with wheel bearing grease, topping up with 70/90
The grease keeps the oil inside the box.
Mad dog
I read on a forum years ago that Lubriplate #1242 (MAG-00 on the label) is good. I have been using that.