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Steering warning

steveg

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I fouled up my steering to the tune of several hundred $$$ by releasing the front plate too far in order to drain the old penrite. In future will only allow it to open 1/8" or less.
As a result the rear bearing slipped down around the shaft and when I tightened the front plate, the rear bearing did not seat in the race and destroyed both the fixed race on the worm, the rear bearing itself and the replaceable cup race adjacent in the housing.

As a result, am buying a new worm and peg from DWR. Fortunately am able to score used bearings and races from friends with used boxes.

WormChipped.jpg
 
Steve--

Sorry to read of your distress--I have been guilty of unintentional self-inflicted wounds and they sting terribly. Just the other day I misread the wiring diagram for a WOLO Hi-Low air horn and hooked up the relay improperly. $57.00 and a new compressor later I got it right....

Though I am not having any steering issues I have read DW's great claims for their unit and I hope you will favor us with a report when you get the replacement installed.
 
Thanx for posting the warning, I prefer to learn from other's mistakes. I make enough on my own. Regularly. :wall: .......:cheers:
 
Gulp! We learn more from mistakes self inflicted or otherwise.

DWR steering racks are tasty bits of engineering. Perhaps you subconsciously wanted one? You'll be happy with the swap. The dynamator installed on my car packed up over the weekend - it's not charging anymore. Maybe all the fan belt pulley monkey business was the cause of its premature demise ($$). Had to re-install the generator. Gives me an excuse to take apart the dynamator to see what's what. Gonzo
 
Gonzo--

You said "steering rack" but my understanding is that the DW unit is still worm (sector) and gear for which they claim great improvement over the stock unit.

I don't know of anyone who has installed the DW unit on their Healey and am simply interested in learning how it works out. Steve must obviously put in a replacement unit and is upgrading to the DW over the usual--I hope the extra cost is worth it.
 
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Gonzo--

You said "steering rack" but my understanding is that the DW unit is still worm (sector) and gear for which they claim great improvement over the stock unit.

I don't know of anyone who has installed the DW unit on their Healey and am simply interested in learning how it works out. Steve must obviously put in a replacement unit and is upgrading to the DW over the usual--I hope the extra cost is worth it.

If you have to buy the column with worm, with matching peg, Moss is $950 + shipping; DWR is $556 including shipping.
 
DWR--and, probably most of the Brit sellers--are often the best deal if you can wait a week or two (longer if Customs gets baffled by Healey parts*). T'was even better a year or so ago, when the £ was weaker.

* I bought some gearbox and OD parts from DWR last year. Customs wanted to know not only what they were--granted, a 1st/2nd sliding shift hub might look sinister in the wrong context--but what they were made of (steel, brass, rubber, etc.). I am so not kidding. To be fair to Customs--well, not really--DWR messed-up the manifest, which started the confusion.
 
Steve--

That's a big difference. Do you have any knowledge as to DW's claim that their part is superior?
 
Steve--

That's a big difference. Do you have any knowledge as to DW's claim that their part is superior?

DW is claiming their part to be superior to the originals. Will it result in a superior driving experience? Will report back after mine's installed.

Two friends have installed the complete DWR steering boxes and swear by them. Mechanic Russ Thompson swears by them.

I'm guessing the Moss parts would be made by the same process and therefore equivalent.
 
Steve--

Did you get the high or standard ratio column? Though high-ratio steering usually makes for more effort I would think that the lighter weight of a 100, relative to a 6 cylinder car, should make this acceptable.
 
Steve--

Did you get the high or standard ratio column? Though high-ratio steering usually makes for more effort I would think that the lighter weight of a 100, relative to a 6 cylinder car, should make this acceptable.

I bought the regular-ratio LHD adjustable.
 
Am installing my DWR steering worm and peg. To prevent further problems, installed a clamp-on sleeve made from a piece of 1" EMT. This becomes a "step" to make sure the bearing doesn't get hung up again if I loosen the front plate.

Couple of observations from my situation:

--Corn head grease will not drain - if I need it out, will have to remove the box and scoop it out. On the other hand, it's inexpensive and easy to install on the bench and probably less likely to leak.

--Corn head grease mixes easily with oil for recycling.

--Inserting the three mounting bolts from the fender side ensures ability to remove box/column without removing radiator.

screenshot.1169.jpg
 
Good luck and please let us know how it turns out.
 
Steve--

Did you get the high or standard ratio column? Though high-ratio steering usually makes for more effort I would think that the lighter weight of a 100, relative to a 6 cylinder car, should make this acceptable.

I replaced the worn stock unit in my '57 vintage racer with a DWR high ratio unit last year. In short, I love it. The stock unit I replaced was well past worn and probably should have been replace much earlier.
 
Dougie,
‘would you put the high ratio in your BJ8 or stick with the standard?
Lin
 
Dougie--

How many turns are there lock to lock in the High Ratio and is more steering effort needed?
 
Dougie,
‘would you put the high ratio in your BJ8 or stick with the standard?
Lin

If my BJ8 needed new steering, I would go with the high ratio, easier to handle in tight places. On the track, it takes much less imput to get around the track.
 
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