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steering terminology question

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nevets

nevets

Jedi Knight
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The steering section inf the manual refers to "end play" and suggests adding/removing shims as a means of correcting excessive end play. My understanding of the term is that excessive end play is the same as excessive axial movement, as opposed to rotational movement, which the manual describes as slackness in the steering lever. Is my understanding correct? and if so, how does end play adversely affect steering performance?
 
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The steering section inf the manual refers to "end play" and suggests adding/removing shims as a means of correcting excessive end play. My understanding of the term is that excessive end play is the same as excessive axial movement, as opposed to rotational movement, which the manual describes as slackness in the steering lever. Is my understanding correct? and if so, how does end play adversely affect steering performance?

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There are two adjustments. The screw on the top of the box controls vertical peg to worm engagement tightness. This must be adjusted to snug with no binding in the center position.

The shims under the box front end cover control tightness of the worm (steering wheel shaft) in the housing (lengthwise, fore & aft, back & forward, axial) clearance. If, when you turn the steering wheel, the shaft (worm) can move lengthwise, there will be slack in the steering until the worm comes up against the top or bottom of it's housing. If, with the steering linkage free to easily move, you can detect any fore & aft movement of the steering wheel & it's shaft, the shims can be adjusted to remove this movement.

I have found that with the top adjustment (peg to worm) backed off, you can tell about the worm end play & adjust it with the shims. Then do the final top screw adjustment to correctly set the peg to worm play. As tight as possible without binding in the straight ahead position. Usually, you can get things adjusted to where there is no more than 1/8" to 1/4" rotational free play at the steering wheel rim. If something is severely worn, you may not be able to get the adjustments this tight.

When removing the end cover, the seal nut & olive must first be removed & the wires threaded through the end of the cover. Of course all of the box lube will leak out, so be prepared for a mess. Refill with a very heavy oil such as SAE 60 wt.
Good luck,
D
 
Thanks Dave
I may investigate and experiment with shim removal. No doubt re-threading the wires will be a fun challenge.

When I removed the filler nut to check lube level, I discovered that the steering box appears to be filled with a very thick lubricant...in fact I would say it was filled with grease, same as what's in my grease gun! Should I be concerned?
 
You only have to thread the wires through the end cover hole. There are connectors about a foot or two from the end cover.

Not sure if the grease will find it's way into the proper places. The thickest oil that will still flow a bit is recommended.

The grease is understandable. When the bottom seal starts to leak, it requires removal of the steering box, rod ends, steering column, steering wheel, & grille to replace the seal. Many folks just put up with the leak.
D
 
If I understand your question correctly: end play would be if you grabbed the steering wheel and moved it up and down as if to pull the column out of its covering. If the end play is located in the column or the lower coupler it should not affect steering geometry or performance. If it is in the rack and pinion gears it could affect how quickly the steering responds to steering input, i.e. slop or slack.
 
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If I understand your question correctly: end play would be if you grabbed the steering wheel and moved it up and down as if to pull the column out of its covering. If the end play is located in the column or the lower coupler it should not affect steering geometry or performance. If it is in the rack and pinion gears it could affect how quickly the steering responds to steering input, i.e. slop or slack.

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Nope, slop or slack is produced in the steering column when excessive end play develops in the system. Consequently, steering response will be affected---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
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Thanks Dave
I may investigate and experiment with shim removal. No doubt re-threading the wires will be a fun challenge.

When I removed the filler nut to check lube level, I discovered that the steering box appears to be filled with a very thick lubricant...in fact I would say it was filled with grease, same as what's in my grease gun! Should I be concerned?

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Yep it is time to be concerned.Hopefully, the PO addition of grease to the box did not allow the components to be come excessively worn.This additional wear of the internal components is caused by the gears pushing the grease out of the gear mesh. As Dave pointed out if the seal is worn or the shaft you may be able to get by using a heavyer lubricant such as STP or Lucas 90/140.---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
If I understand your question correctly: end play would be if you grabbed the steering wheel and moved it up and down as if to pull the column out of its covering. If the end play is located in the column or the lower coupler it should not affect steering geometry or performance. If it is in the rack and pinion gears it could affect how quickly the steering responds to steering input, i.e. slop or slack.

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In this particular case, the steering is worm & peg. A J shaped shaft (rocker shaft) has a short peg attached to it which rides in the worm groove. The long end of the J shaft extends through the steering box & has a steering lever (Pitman) arm attached to the bottom.

End play refers to the worm moving lengthwise within the steering box. When this happens, the steering shaft/worm turning causes the worm to move lengthwise in the housing instead of translating to movement of the peg & it's attached steering arm. There are bearings (combined radial & thrust) in the box at each end of the worm. Shims can be removed from the lower box end plate to housing joint to remove any end play in the worm that may be caused by wear of the shaft or bearings.

Some of the cars have adjustable steering colum length via sliding steering column coupling, some do not. In either case, it is the end wise movement of the worm inside the box itself that creates free play in the steering.

There is also an adjustment in the top of the box that sets peg to worm clearance to remove free play between these two parts.

With proper adjustment, nearly all of the slack can be removed from the steering, even when parts get worn a bit.
D
 
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