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Steering slack
- Thread starter ian_h
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Healey steering boxes have an adjustment bolt on top to help remove some of the slack from wear of the worm and peg. Have you tried adjusting it?
Hi
I have a pre Sept 54 bn 1 which doesn’t have the adjuster screw so I guess I am limited to adding end plate shims
Can you remove/reposition the steering peg while the box is still installed in the car and the steering links connected?
If so do all the bearings fall out on the floor?
Many thanks
Ian
I have a pre Sept 54 bn 1 which doesn’t have the adjuster screw so I guess I am limited to adding end plate shims
Can you remove/reposition the steering peg while the box is still installed in the car and the steering links connected?
If so do all the bearings fall out on the floor?
Many thanks
Ian
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Not sure on that early car, However, there are no bearings associated with the peg.
However, rotating the peg may put Unworn peg surfaces in contact with the steering gear, which may eliminate the slack.
Last edited:
many thanks for the exploded diagram.
I want to try and remove the slack with out taking out the steering column which involves removal of steering wheel and steering links both which require specialist tools.
On the exploded diagram Looks like 12 needs to come out the way to get to the steering pin which involves removing steering link.
It was bearings 14 and 18 I was worried would end up all over the garage floor :rapture:
As I mentioned pre Sept 54 there is no adjusting screw:
I want to try and remove the slack with out taking out the steering column which involves removal of steering wheel and steering links both which require specialist tools.
On the exploded diagram Looks like 12 needs to come out the way to get to the steering pin which involves removing steering link.
It was bearings 14 and 18 I was worried would end up all over the garage floor :rapture:
As I mentioned pre Sept 54 there is no adjusting screw:
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Here's the web page:
https://mossmotors.com/austin-heale...-steering/steering/steering-box-bn1-early-bn2
#27 is referred to a the "thrust bolt"; #29 as the "lock plate". Those would appear to be the adjustment mechanism - maybe they're underneath the cover.
https://mossmotors.com/austin-heale...-steering/steering/steering-box-bn1-early-bn2
#27 is referred to a the "thrust bolt"; #29 as the "lock plate". Those would appear to be the adjustment mechanism - maybe they're underneath the cover.
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I owned a 100 back in the ‘70’s and I had to rebuild the steering box due to excessive slop. If my memory serves me, the case was aluminum and where the bearing/bushing fit was wallowed out plus it was stepped down compared to the later boxes. My machinest used a piston pin bushing from a case/continental engine to fix it. Hopefully you won’t have to go this far, but if you do there’s a solution.
pan
Jedi Warrior
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G'day Ian,
My 100 is a July '54 built car and has the steering box with the adjusting nut. But if that method is not available the way to adjust is by the shims under the cap (#21 in the diagram). This adjustment can be done without removing the box from the car. The Workshop manual describes this. You do have a manual, don't you?
I am sure fellow AHC members could offer advice (you are a member aren't you?).
Cheers,
Alwyn
My 100 is a July '54 built car and has the steering box with the adjusting nut. But if that method is not available the way to adjust is by the shims under the cap (#21 in the diagram). This adjustment can be done without removing the box from the car. The Workshop manual describes this. You do have a manual, don't you?
I am sure fellow AHC members could offer advice (you are a member aren't you?).
Cheers,
Alwyn