Steering Rack

[2033husky]

Trying to determine whether steering rack is in good condition or is it better to replace? I have no idea how many miles on car but everything looks to have been run hard. If replaceing do I go with a standard or quick rack? Victoria British is considerably cheaper on either rack than the two other major suppliers. Surely their isn't more than one manufacturer for these racks but then why such a difference in price. Any experience with new, rebuilt or quick rack would be appreciated.

 

[Carlos]

Moss has it now for $199. Just a twenty more than Vickie Bee.

 

[KVH]

I always wonder: What about those splined fittings on the steering shaft? If those are worn, who makes new ones? What do you do??

Also, do the new racks come with a splined extension piece?

 

[Alan_Myers]

Quicker steering is always nice. It's hard to be sure the condition of the rack, once it's out of the car. Best tests are while the car is on the road.

I think TRF offers rebuilt racks, too.

It's next to impossible to rebuild one yourself, hard to get all the parts.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Guest]

You really don't want the quick steering rack. Two things:
Steering at parking speed is an absolute bear, steering at highway speeds is very, very squirrely. Great for autocross, not much else. I very briefly had it on mine, hiccup at highway speed and you are in another lane. Not good.


Bill

 

[Rusticus]

If you give your rack the "5 squeezes" of greese as specified in the manual evry 6k mi it should last longer than you do. (It's not as fun as it sounds. :>) Just be careful that some PO didn't over do it - grease will flow out the ends of the rack and fill the gaiters to the point where they pop off! That's where I've experienced trouble, with the ball joints at the end of the rack. If the gaiters fail, the ball joins will too.

I know whut yer gonna say, in a girlie voice: "Rusticus - Your motor will probably fall out on the road first. Tee, hee, snicker."

Well, it didn't. :>)

 

[vettedog72]

Rusticus:
Where on the rack do you introduce the grease? Hate to admit it but I don't recall putting any grease in the rack. I guess that's why my gaiters are not showing any leakage. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif About 20 years ago, my TR6 taught me a lesson about the oil spout for the distributor shaft. I looked for months to find some (conventional) entrance for the oil; since there was none, I thought I had a modified or "later, modern" distributor. Wrong, it's just the screw head in the middle of the distributor shaft! So with that in mind, I'm sure there is no grease fitting on the rack; what's the trick and what kind of grease?

 

[Guest]

Take the grounding plug out of the top of the rack, where there is a ground attached, and substitute a grease fitting. You can actually leave the grease fitting in place when you are done, just remember to attach the ground.


Bill

 

[TR4nut]

Here's a related question about those new racks -does anyone know if they are compatible with original inner tie rods? - I think they are a good price and I guess compatibility with original parts isn't that big a deal but it would be nice to know what you'll be maintaining in the future.

Just wish they marketed a TR4 version - just a little longer than the TR6 racks. Mine is in the middle of a potential rebuild as I have all the parts all over the place, but I'm still not sure I will be able to salvage very worn and corroded inner ball joints on it.

Randy.

 

[Carlos]

[ QUOTE ]
Take the grounding plug out of the top of the rack, where there is a ground attached, <snip...> just remember to attach the ground.

Bill

[/ QUOTE ]

My new rack from Moss has a blind larger plug into which a grease fitting won't fit. What is the purpose of the grounding wire? I'm thinking of going without it.

 

[vettedog72]

Thanks Bill:
That is another wise maintenance tip. I usually reattach factory-installed grounds and I will do so with the rack just to avoid any unknown potential problems.