Steering Rack Problem

[KVH]

I just finished rebuilding my engine, and I'll soon report step by step for whatever value it may be.

But in the meantime, I have a nasty rub going on between the steering rack and the fan extension. I just installed new motor mounts so this is puzzling.

If I jack up the engine to put washers beneath the engine foot, do I need to drain the radiator and remove the hoses? All that over again? Disconnect the throttle bar again?

About the cause, I really can't imagine, but two things come to mind: a) maybe I didn't torque the U-Clamps enough? I doubt that would cause this; b) was it proper to slide the rubber steering mounts under the steering rack feet? It looks like that is supposed to be done, but maybe not?

Thanks.

 

[TR4nut]

The rubber steering mounts do go all the way around, so if the rack seems reasonably tight to the frame I don't think that is your problem. For some reason, it sounds like your engine is a little low in the front.

Seems odd, but perhaps the new mounts are not quite thick enough? If you have spare alignment shims I think you could slip them pretty easy along the frame to build it up. If not, consider cutting a slot in the washers so you can slide them in and I don't think you'd need to mess with draining anything.

Randy

 

[Geo Hahn]

...But in the meantime, I have a nasty rub going on between the steering rack and the fan extension...

Apart from other difficulties, that would pretty much rule out ever changing the fan belt again.

If you can think of some measurement that would help you diagnose what is too high, too low, too thick or too thin -- let me know and I can see what mine measures at.

I have certainly backed off the engine mounts and jacked the engine quite a bit w/o disconnecting anything, that is how I get a new wide/thick fan belt under the extension. Slotted inserts to raise the engine could likely (as suggested) be done this way.

 

[emmett1010]

you could look through the hand crank hole in the radiator and see how well the front pully bolt lines up.
My TR3 bolt is low, but my I wonder if my tr4a transmission, and adapted mount have raised the rear of the transmission, or if I just need 1/4 or 3/8" shims on the motor.
Emmett

 

[Geo Hahn]

you could look through the hand crank hole in the radiator and see how well the front pully bolt lines up...

'Cept 4As don't got no crankhole in the rad.

 

[davidk]

Would replacing the transmission mount help?

 

[TRDejaVu]

I have shimmed the engine mounts up on mine. I didn't disconnect the hoses, but just to be sure I backed out the lower radiator mount bolts to allow for movement there rather than have it on the hose to radiator joints. When all was done, I adjusted the rad accordingly and tightened it all back up.

 

[TR3driver]

My TR3 bolt is low,

The factory actually listed shims for the earlier cars, for that very reason. They frequently didn't line up even when new, and aren't likely to be any better now.

 

[KVH]

Lots of great advice so far. I'm inclined to use slotted washers or the alignment shims like Randy says, but I'm worried about "why" this is occurring with new motor mounts.

Is it possible I didn't knock the hub back onto the crank far enough or didn't torque the dog bolt hard enough?

I left about 1/4 inch between the timing cover and the rear heels of the six bolts that to thru the hub assembly. That seemed like the way it was. Then, there being no spec in the book, I torqued the dog bolt to about 65 pounds and I believe it is square to the fax extension housing.

Any other ideas?

 

[Geo Hahn]

I can't recall where you live -- wondering if I parked my TR4 alongside your 4A we could spot what is causing this.