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Steering Oil

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Dave Richards

Dave Richards

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I checked the oil level in the streeing box today, it's pretty close to the top. BUT, when I checked the idler, there was no oil in sight. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

As far as I can tell, there should be 90 wt gear oil right to the top of the idler, is this correct? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

Thanks.
 
dar100,the book says "castrol hypoy" i rebuilt mine about a year ago and there is much info on the"search" in this forum,if you find youll have to rebuild a suggest you go there, these units do leak you may very well expect to find that if you just refill the unit it will continue to perform well for a good while if however your having binding tight spots or loose spots in the steering youll have to rebuild, the gaskets are available but when you take it appart you may have to "reshim" its top cover because thats what sets the clearances.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I checked the idler, there was no oil in sight. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

As far as I can tell, there should be 90 wt gear oil right to the top of the idler, is this correct? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

Thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes that is correct. However, if the Idler is leaking a possible solution is to fill it With Lucas HD Gear oil after fitting a new seal. I use it in the Steering box too.--Fwiw---Keoke
 
Yeah Dave I know . However, in some instances the shaft in the area of the seal is worn and the increased viscosity of Lucas gear oil will prevent the idler from leaking while also providing the required lubrication.---Keoke
 
Thanks! I haven't noticed any steering problems whatever. The oil in the steering box was close to the top, and I haven't noticed any leaking there. I am going to pay close attention to the idler and see if there is any evidence of leaking there. I will also find some Lucas gear oil.

I'm not afraid to tackle seal replacement, I just have a long list of stuff to do in front of any new little projects. I'm still cleaning and detailing the engine compartment and the transmission area with the tunnel off. I've replaced both master cylinders and generally cleaning 20-40 years of crud. Getting to the master cylinders, I removed the air cleaners and then decided to remove carbs, that lead to "rebuilding" the housings for the throttle bushes, etc., etc. I've yet to clean the tunnel to put the insulation on it. Overall, I'm really pretty pleased with the solid condition of everything, just want to get it cleaned up and sorted out.

Thanks again for the input.
 
[ QUOTE ]

However, in some instances the shaft in the area of the seal is worn and the increased viscosity of Lucas gear oil will prevent the idler from leaking while also providing the required lubrication.---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]
Yeah - I guess so. If the shaft is worn under the seal I would prefer to fix it "right" by using a "Speedy Sleeve" to repair the worn shaft. I believe that something like the "SKF #CR 99087" would fit the nominal 7/8" shaft just right. Better than using grease or having it leak all the time. I put up with a leak for a long time before I discovered how easy it was to permanently fix.
D
 
Anthony7777, I thought it was only the early BN1's that you had to shim, all the rest had an adjuster setup?
 
Used a mix of oil/grease in my old landrover front end, worked great, might weep a bit but all was kept lubricated
 
[ QUOTE ]
Anthony7777, I thought it was only the early BN1's that you had to shim, all the rest had an adjuster setup?

[/ QUOTE ] zblu, i belive all the "idlers" are the same one from bn-1 through bj-8, the steering boxes however go somthing like this, bn-1-bn-2 had the same, late bn-2-early bn-4 and bn-6 had the same, some late bn-4 and bn-6 had the same one as bn-7,bt-7,bj-7, and bj-8,had another. thats why i said he "may have to re-shim" i hope i was able to make that perfectly clear- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif if hes going to rebush/re-seal the idler hes going to have to re-shim the top cover for clearance, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif "heeeeeeeers keoke" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Anthony7777, I thought it was only the early BN1's that you had to shim, all the rest had an adjuster setup?

[/ QUOTE ]

No all the Idlers require shimming the top. Originally they came with a layered gasket which you could peel away layers to get the proper fit. That type gasket as a replacement I do not think is available. Consequently, it requires that you make them and using a try and fit approach reduce the end float to zero while maintaining unbinding rotation.--Keoke
 
keoke, didnt i just say that? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif anyway as ive mentioned here several times i shimmed mine with a piece of a computer "mouse pad" perfect for my idler, worked great, thank you dell, and i could not find reprose/nos for this job. your going to find that if your shimm is not thick enough the shaft will bind/lock up , whatever you use just keep turning the shaft as your replacing and tightening the screws,if you feel it getting tight.remove the screw and add thickness to the shim till you get it right. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
Yep, but you had to try twice to get it straight. The second time it was pretty close.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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