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Steering Idler

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fwtexasbj8

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All,
The steering idler in my BJ-8 has been leaking for a while and it finally made it to the top of the fix-it list. I got it all apart today without too much trouble, but on inspection, the shaft is very scored and pitted where the oil seal rides. I am going to take it to an automotive machine shop to get them to press in and ream the new bushings but now am wondering if there is anything that can be done to repair the shaft short of replacing it. Does anyone know of a way to repair the pitting? I am assuming the shaft has been heat treated to harden it so I do not know if it could be turned ever so slightly to remove some of the damage. Any thouhgts?

Doug
 
---- :savewave:

A bit of thought and probably cost too. The shaft can be Magnetron sputtered with new metal and turned back to its original size. Shops that do this will Induction harden the repair. Hard chrome plating is also a viable technique.

There is a cheaper way but I do not have a clue what the source of the parts are. I used a seal that is 1/2 as thick as the original one . this allowed me to use two seals in the place of one. For this case the seals ride on an undisturbed portion of the shaft and have double tracks. You might take the original seal to a parts house and tell them you want one that is the same except 1/2 as Thick to get one.

If you find it get {4} as they work in the steering box too. :D----Keoke-- :cowboy:
 
Another option, short of replacing the shaft, would be to find a repair sleeve that size (if one exists).

They're very common to use on the end of a crankshaft (very-very thin sleeve that fits over the worn area of the snout to give the seal something fresh to rub on).

In the case of the steering idler, you'd have to assemble the shaft into the housing, and then fit the sleeve afterward, or it wouldn't pass through the new bushings.

Always, ALWAYS, put a smear of grease on the shaft and on the lip seal during assembly. Never EVER start a lip-type seal dry.

Here's but one (1) manufacturer (a quick search turned up several): https://vsmus-origin.skf.com/Files/Brochures_in_PDF/457892.pdf
 
Hey! yeah yhat will work too :thumbsup:. I think but I am not sure that Knock is a source for those Speed Rings.---Keoke--
 
I had the same problem. My take on it was that I found a new seal that was slightly smaller than the original 1" id seal. I therefore machined the pits off the shaft and installed the new seal. It was only slightly smaller on the id so I had no problem getting it up the shaft (and the shaft is tapered up the splines anyway)
I have bought the penrite oil which is thicker anyway so should also help. Cars not on the road yet so we will have to see.

Andy
 
As usual, thanks for the advice. I had not thought about a sleeve. I should have the monthly present from Moss tomorrow with all the parts and will be off to the machine shop on Friday to check on the options. I will post the solution when I get it fixed.

Doug
 
tahoe healey said:
While on the subject of idlers, how do you check the oil level of the idler as mentioned in Nock's book on page 21?
Click to expand...

Hi TH, On top of the idler is a small threaded plug {Item #10 in the Moss catalogue in the steering section} Remove the plug and top up the idler as required.---Keoke
 
tahoe healey said:
I guess my question should have been, how can you tell if it need topping up? Fill 'till it spills?
Click to expand...

Naw Th, see that the oil level is about 1/2" below the spill point will be OK.---Keoke
 
TH,
I would fill it a little higher than 1/2 inch below. You want to be sure the oil line is above the center oil gallery that supplies oil to the bushings.

Doug
 
Well, I should have all the parts back in hand from the machine shop tomorrow. Final verdict was the idler shaft was too pitted to simply turn down slightly and while the Speedi-Sleeve idea was good, my machine shop could not get a sleeve that would work. Their only option was to turn the shaft down and weld on new material then turn to the correct diameter. Their estimate was $150 vs. the cost of a new shaft at $110. I decided to go for the cheap fix and have the new bushings reemed to the correct diameter for my old idler as the bushing area was still in great shape. They are going to polish the idler at the seal surface the best they can and I am going to fill the assembly with synthetic grease. I will replace the oil filler with a grease fitting and in the Texas winter, should have no further worries for another 45 years. I know a couple of folks in the North Texas Healey Club have done this with no issues.

Thanks for the good suggestions from everyonne.

Doug
 
fwtexasbj8 said:
Well, I should have all the parts back in hand from the machine shop tomorrow. Final verdict was the idler shaft was too pitted to simply turn down slightly and while the Speedi-Sleeve idea was good, my machine shop could not get a sleeve that would work. Their only option was to turn the shaft down and weld on new material then turn to the correct diameter. Their estimate was $150 vs. the cost of a new shaft at $110.

I decided to go for the cheap fix and have the new bushings reemed to the correct diameter for my old idler as the bushing area was still in great shape. They are going to polish the idler at the seal surface the best they can and I am going to fill the assembly with synthetic grease.

:savewave:
:nonono: :nonod: :nonod: :nonod: The reason it takes oil now is previously when grease was the lubricant they continuously failed So did the steering boxes;---Keoke-- :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:

I will replace the oil filler with a grease fitting and in the Texas winter, should have no further worries for another 45 years. I know a couple of folks in the North Texas Healey Club have done this with no issues.

Thanks for the good suggestions from everyonne.

Doug
Click to expand...
 
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