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Steering Idler Noise

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Martinld123

Martinld123

Jedi Hopeful
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When I shake the right side wheel the steering Idler makes a metal to metal sound and moves up very slightly. Any ideas? New one is $395 I believe. Will check oil later today. Thanks Marty
 
So replace the bushings in it , put a grease NIPPLE on it , grease it and say goodbye to it ever having issues again .
 
Healey Nut said:
So replace the bushings in it , put a grease NIPPLE on it , grease it and say goodbye to it ever having issues again .
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Yep, do that. This is what it looks like. Be sure to shim the zerk fitting with a thin washer because its threads will go too deep and groove the shaft if ya don't. If your idler arm and shaft are moving up and down your bushings are shot. You will drive the new bushings in place then hone them some until the shaft fits snug but not too tight to turn.
 

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Marv thanks for offer but so far with help from people on here I may have solved problem. I took cap off and backed off filler plug so it could not hit shaft and also filled it with grease. Sounds good so far. Thanks Marty
 
Zerk fitting seems to be the way to go in future but after taking top off, backing off plug, and filling with grease sound seems to be gone. I would like to maybe put bushings in someday but the honing word scares me. It that tool something I can rent at auto parts store? Will look up on Internet to see. Thanks Marty
 
Moss sells a lubricant for the steering box and ldler by Dynolite.
According to Moss' description, regular grease is NOT recommended...for the steering box. No mention of the Idler, so not sure if it encompasses that.

Here's what's written on page A45 in the Moss catalog:

"Our steering box lube by Dynolite is a semi-fluid grease acts as a liquid where greases do not. If you use grease in a steering box the centrifugal action of the internal components flings the grease away, causing it to stick to the casing where it cannot lubricate the components. Semi-fluid grease is able to drain down and pool in the casing enabling continued lubrication".
 
Don't believe the idler is the same kind of situation as the steering, where you've got centrifugal forces.

If one is going to use a zerk, consider pumping in Corn Head grease - that way you'd get some flowing.
 
Steve,

I 'mis-wrote;' I was thinking reamer (most auto machinists will have a set). I wouldn't use a hone for this, if it worked for you, good.

Edit: Did you hone your king pin bushes the last time you replaced them?
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Steve,

I 'mis-wrote;' I was thinking reamer (most auto machinists will have a set). I wouldn't use a hone for this, if it worked for you, good.

Edit: Did you hone your king pin bushes the last time you replaced them?
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Bob,
When I bought my BJ8 spindles, the kingpin bushes were already honed to size. I only replaced and honed my steering box bushes. My idler has been good except for adjusting the vertical play by removing a shim or two.
 
Hmmmmm ... anybody know if there's any brass or bronze in a Healey rear-end? I see some thrust washers on the diagram, and they are usually bronze; may have to get the 75W-140 out of there (though I've put probably 15K miles on it with no issues).

Edit: Just checked with David Nock and he says the thrust washers are indeed bronze/brass--bronze, probably--but he said he's 'used GL-5 for years' and never seen a problem with it. What to do, what to do ...
 
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Bob_Spidell said:
Hmmmmm ... anybody know if there's any brass or bronze in a Healey rear-end? I see some thrust washers on the diagram, and they are usually bronze; may have to get the 75W-140 out of there (though I've put probably 15K miles on it with no issues).

Edit: Just checked with David Nock and he says the thrust washers are indeed bronze/brass--bronze, probably--but he said he's 'used GL-5 for years' and never seen a problem with it. What to do, what to do ...
Click to expand...

Bob, this should probably be on the rear end thread, where I'm talking about this right now. Would you ask it there and let me know what oil you plan on using. Handbook says GL-4, 90w
 
Honing is appropriate for breaking glaze on cylinder walls and cleaning up minor pitting on brake cylinders, but king pin bushings should be reamed. The bushes themselves need to be carefully installed so that the greasing passage aligns with the channel on the bushes, and the bushes need to be exactly aligned with each other. You need a reamer to do this:

https://mossmotors.com/reamer-swivel-pin-bushes

If you can't find someone local to do it, BCS can do it.
 
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