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Steering flexible coupling - how easy to replace?

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OK - here I go! In addition to the loose rear end (ha!), the steering column is pretty loose as well. The steering couplers appear very old and dried out.

How big of a job should I be expecting? Any tricks or tips? (Manuals haven't arrived yet)

Thanks!

Moss part # 667-390
https://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29141#32
 

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Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

Tom,
It is quite possible that if you have a wobbly steering wheel that you will have to replace the bushings. I have not done this yet since I have determined that the amount of play in my steering wheel is acceptable for now.
I can tell you that if you are just going to replace the coupler on the steering shaft that you don’t have to remove the entire assembly. When you unbolt the coupler you can swing the steering shaft out of the way and install the new coupler.
The only trick is when reinstalling the bolts is getting them started. The bolt circle in the coupler is larger than the bolt pattern on the yokes, and since the shaft is angled to the steering rack from this point you have to find a way to compress the coupler and start the threads ensuring that they aren’t cross threaded. It is a bit of fiddling but it can be done.
If you need to remove the steering column wait until your book arrives. Getting it out does not seem to be that involved but I do not know what it takes to get the new bushings in.
You may want to search this forum since I believe that this topic has come up before.
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

Ah, that is very helpful.

Can you compress the coupler manually, or do you need a clamp or tool?

Thanks for the info!
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

RomanH is right, the coupler does need to be compressed before you can bolt it in. I struggled with it for an hour or so before I got smart enough to use a pair of large channel lock pliers to compress it enough so I could install the bolts.

Although your couplers may need replacing, they're probably not the main source of your wobble. You're probably looking at replacing the steering column bushings. You don't necessarily need the manuals to do the job, but it does help. Either way, remember how the column comes out because I thought the Bentley manual did a terrible job at show how everything fit together. You will definitely have to take out the tach and speedo to get to some of the mounting bolts.

Another cause of the wobbly steering column is the broken steering column mount that's welded to the firewall. Over the years people use the steering wheel as leverage to get in and out and consequently weaken the welds. That would be a painful repair, because you'd have to remove most of the guts from under the dash.

Good luck,
 
How long should new bushings in the column last? I keep reading of people replacing them.
 
Hi Folks,

Hmmm. I've never found it any big deal to change the "rubber donut" steering couplings on a TR. The Moss illustration actually gives most the info on how it goes together. Be sure to replace the ground wire, while in there. Also, the bolts *must* be safety wired, as I see they are in your photo.

The rubber couplers on my TR4 were replaced twice in the 25+ years I've owned it, and really could have been used a bit longer the last time. So, no, I don't think they are prone to give problems.

The upper column bushings are more difficult to replace (the two #8s in the Moss illus.) These wear and contribute a lot of play to the steering, too. If your steering wheel rocks from side to side, they need to be replaced. Essentially, the steering wheel has to come off, then the switches and wiring need to be removed, then the column unbolted and pulled out of the dash (there are a couple brackets and braces under the dash).

The upper column bushings have rubber buttons on the outside, that seat into holes in the outer column to trap them in place. To remove, cut the rubber button off with an Xacto knife, then press out the bushing with a close fitting socket. Sometimes they are really stuck, in which case you might need to carefully use a hacksaw blade to cut through them most of the way, then press them out. Use a little WD40 or lighter fluid on the new ones to make them slippery, then press into place until the button is seated in the hole. (WD40 or lighter fluid will evaporate in a short while, and they will no longer slip around.)

Another thing to look at while working on the steering is the column mounting bracket on the firewall, not shown in the Moss illustration, but #18 lays on it, and the column is held onto that with 17 & un-numbered part right next to it. The bracket is prone to breaking away from the firewall and is another major contributor to sloppy steering. Welding will be needed if it's broken, although I've seen more than one homemade, bolt-in bracket used instead since it's a lot of work to clear the area under the dash to do any welding.

You might want to plan to replace #16, 17, 18 & 19 in the Moss illus. too. They often need it. #20, the aluminum end cap, will wear badly too, if there has been a lot of slop. Might also need to be replaced.
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

If it is the bushings (as was the case with my steering), you may want to look at the post I started earlier this week:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...p;page=1#148201

In the last post, I give my method for removing the bushes - required no hammering or swearing!

Rob.
 
As mentioned by others, the 'donut' has to be compressed before it can be installed. I've done it once, and I've decided that the next time it needs to be done I'm going to replace both with the lower u-joint from the TR6. I know it will increase shock from the road transmitted thru the column, but I'm just not thrilled with my life depending on a couple rubber donuts /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
One way to compress the donut is to use a hose clamp - probably the biggest one you can find at the parts store, a good 4" or so diameter - I didn't have trouble finding one. Put it around the outside of the donut and when you tighten the screw it will squeeze it in such a way that the bolts will slip right through.

I also used that same hoseclip after I was done as a fix for the broken bracket on the firewall that supports the steering column outer. It is a well known trouble area and something to check. It is said to be caused by people levering on the s/wheel for getting in and out of the car. If you can move the bottom of the outer column around from under the hood by the firewall, you might want to investigate and may have a broken bracket. Anyway I was able to tighten it all up by passing the hose clip all the way around (working inside the car) and gather it up to one part of the bracket that was still attached. You may need or be more comfortable with a better repair of course. It's also important to be careful with the wiring on that one....

Pete
 
[ QUOTE ]

Another thing to look at while working on the steering is the column mounting bracket on the firewall, not shown in the Moss illustration, but #18 lays on it, and the column is held onto that with 17 & un-numbered part right next to it. The bracket is prone to breaking away from the firewall and is another major contributor to sloppy steering.

[/ QUOTE ]

I now see this was covered! - Pete
 
Just a quick note to say THANKS to everyone for their help and feedback. Moss has the parts on the way, and this will be one of my weekend tasks.

Thanks again - I am so happy I found this forum!
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

Back in the mid 70's I had a fairly tricked out Capri. One of the things I did to tighten the steering was to replace that steering coupler with one made of some kind of hard plastic. It quickened up the steering quite a bit and I was to young to notice how the road feel degraded. It was the mid 70's and I have no idea what it was made of.
Don
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

Well, sure enough the column mounting bracket on the firewall is separated on one side.

Is there a more robust replacement bracket I should be thinking about, or do I need to replace the existing one via a MIG weld? This is for a TR4A.

Happy Holidays!
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

You may find the original bracket adequate though if you do a beefier version it would be 'insurance' I suspect that these break because of some PO's habit of using the steering wheel to leverage himself in & out of the driver's seat... they aren't really strong enough to take thatm treatment for 40 years.
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

[ QUOTE ]
Well, sure enough the column mounting bracket on the firewall is separated on one side.

Is there a more robust replacement bracket I should be thinking about, or do I need to replace the existing one via a MIG weld? This is for a TR4A.

Happy Holidays!

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi,

The prev owner of my TR4 replaced the broken bracket with a bolted in homemade bracket. That didn't work very well and didn't even give me a guideline as to what the original looked like. With the help of folks here who provided photos of good brackets, I made up a replacement out of slightly heavier (14 gauge I think) steel. It would also be possible to add some gussets or even double up the sheet steel in key areas on an intact, original bracket. The two long bends parallel with/along either side of the steering column are usually where it cracks, especially the one bent more than 90 degrees. If your's has just pulled loose from the tack welds at the firewall, you are lucky and the repair should be pretty straightforward: just reattach to the firewall using a few short seam welds. Some strengthening of the bracket itself would be advised.

Yes, MIG is probably the best welding method to use in this case. Done a little at a time, it would spread the least heat around, burning off a less paint on the opposite side of the firewall and off the scuttle area above the bracket. You'll need to get wiring and other flammable things out of the way or well-protected, of course.

I'm pretty sure stronger brackets available from one or two of the British vendors (you might try www.RevingtonTR.com), might be available from some of the U.S. vendors too, from time to time. But I think it's also pretty easy to fabricate something that will do the job. I ended up making the entire bracket out of the heavier, but more difficult to bend materials. It was an afternoon's job with a carbboard mockup, a vise and some body tools. It should be much easier if you have a reasonably intact original part to start with, that might even be repaired and reinforced rather than replacing it.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

Does anyone sell a stronger bracket or should I plan on trying (emphasis on trying) to fabricate one?
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

Sorry, one more follow up question. Can you change out the coupling in place or does the steering assembly need to be removed from the car first?

I took a quick run at this tonight, and it feels like I'm going to snap the column trying to get the bolts loose.
 
Re: Steering flexible coupling - how easy to repla

You can do it in place
 
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