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TR6 steering column bushings

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S

Sumton

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my steering column moves in every direction. i need new column bushings, among other things. Art Delrin no longer sells his; should i just get them from Moss (and if so, what are the part numbers??) or who should i get them from?

i have seen Bob D's page, and there are lots of other instructions on the web about swapping them out, so i think i'm covered there.
 
525-020 Bearing, Steering Column. I had a TR4A before my TR250, and always felt the steering was sloppy and imprecise compared to a Sprite or MGB. Then I replaced the column bushing on the TR250, best cheap fix I ever did, or at least top ten. The feel and sensation of the car is just so much tighter and solid, I did not pull the old bushings as I recall, I just cheated and shoved the new ones in each end.
 
glemon said:
525-020 Bearing, Steering Column. I had a TR4A before my TR250, and always felt the steering was sloppy and imprecise compared to a Sprite or MGB. Then I replaced the column bushing on the TR250, best cheap fix I ever did, or at least top ten. The feel and sensation of the car is just so much tighter and solid, I did not pull the old bushings as I recall, I just cheated and shoved the new ones in each end.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Not the rack bushing. It the column bearing quite often. Tricky to pop out and then back in, but when you're done what a payoff.
 
KVH said:
Exactly. Not the rack bushing. It the column bearing quite often. Tricky to pop out and then back in, but when you're done what a payoff.
Click to expand...

+1, the hassle is worth it once the column bushing is done if that is it.

Make sure the bracket that holds the column in place under the dash is not cracked, mine was and address that with the MIG and doing the column bushing replacement transformed how she drove.
 
+2. Putting in new column bushings is a huge improvement.

I had some spotty luck with the rubber bushings. One of the ones that I installed separated as I was pressing it into the column tube. I used some colorful language when that happened...

I went with the urethane bushings for my TR6. These poly bushing have a much better fit, but are more difficult to install than the rubber ones. I found some simple hardware store items made a world of difference when pressing the new bushings into place. Only a couple items are needed: a 1" electrical conduit connector and a length of PVC pipe about 6" long (with an ID large enough to go over the inner column and an OD small enough to slide inside the outer column - I think this was 3/4") and a small tub of silicone grease.

The conduit connector should have an internal stop (which is useful) and requires a slight modification to work for the upper bushing. Two flats need to be filed 180 degrees apart to allow the connector to pass through the switch bridge pieces at the upper end of the column. This can easily be done with a flat file. I also marked the desired location of the bushing ears on the outside of the connector with a Sharpie for correct alignment of the bushing.

To install the bushing in the column, I coated the inside of the conduit connector with silicone grease and pressed the column bushing into the connector until the bushing hit the internal stop. This leaves about 1/4-3/8" of the bushing sticking out the connector. This makes it easy to position the new bushing square with the column tube. The bushing can then be pushed home with the length of PVC. So long as the conduit connector is held against the column tube, the new bushing should slide right into the tube. I then installed the inner column. Relube and repeat for the second bushing at the other end. With the "tools", I was able to install both bushings in less than 20 minutes.

Good luck!

Nick
 
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