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TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
Offline
Some time ago I posted about pulling cams off shafts and wondering how to get them back on. I had a decent cam on a shaft but the other (coupler) end was damaged and another cam on a shaft that was cut with a torch -and yet another perfect cam on a shaft that was torch cut leaving about 2" of shaft (I got off ebay for $17.02).
Today I got my best cam put on my best shaft. First I had a trail run with the bad parts, being sure that I wasn't putting a cam onto the same shaft it was pulled off. Just like someone suggested, I heated the cam at 350 for a couple hours, and then I used some 3/8" all-thread to pull the cam back onto the shaft -using washers under nuts until it bottomed out, then using a larger spacer to pull against the section of the cam outside the race. Went on so easy I couldn't wait to do the real thing. Cleaned the splines, heated the cam and pulled it on half way and it stuck. Had to use my puller, and pull it back off. Heated it again, cleaned the splines better, oiled them, and rotated the cam about 30 degrees, and it pulled right on the second time.
Now I've got a good cam, shaft, bearings and good to go!
But also, I did notice that each of the cams has a date code on it as well as "15642". And the end cover (the steering box bottom cover with the olive nut in the center) also has a date code. Of the boxes I took apart, 1 had a date code on the cover of 4 59 while the code on the cam was 7 59. Another 9 58 cover and 10 58 cam. I have a cam with 7 56 and cover with 1 54 -that would be a TR2! The oldest part I have. The cam I used was 8 60 and I think I'll use a 11 59 cover. Some of the covers are bent/bowed as if too many shims were installed and most of my drop arms have a groove that could cause fluid leaking. As soon as my new seal shows up, I'll have a complete box that should perform well.
Today I got my best cam put on my best shaft. First I had a trail run with the bad parts, being sure that I wasn't putting a cam onto the same shaft it was pulled off. Just like someone suggested, I heated the cam at 350 for a couple hours, and then I used some 3/8" all-thread to pull the cam back onto the shaft -using washers under nuts until it bottomed out, then using a larger spacer to pull against the section of the cam outside the race. Went on so easy I couldn't wait to do the real thing. Cleaned the splines, heated the cam and pulled it on half way and it stuck. Had to use my puller, and pull it back off. Heated it again, cleaned the splines better, oiled them, and rotated the cam about 30 degrees, and it pulled right on the second time.
Now I've got a good cam, shaft, bearings and good to go!
But also, I did notice that each of the cams has a date code on it as well as "15642". And the end cover (the steering box bottom cover with the olive nut in the center) also has a date code. Of the boxes I took apart, 1 had a date code on the cover of 4 59 while the code on the cam was 7 59. Another 9 58 cover and 10 58 cam. I have a cam with 7 56 and cover with 1 54 -that would be a TR2! The oldest part I have. The cam I used was 8 60 and I think I'll use a 11 59 cover. Some of the covers are bent/bowed as if too many shims were installed and most of my drop arms have a groove that could cause fluid leaking. As soon as my new seal shows up, I'll have a complete box that should perform well.
