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Steering box lubricant

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Penrite Steering Box Lube. I inject it in with a large cooking syringe.
 
Plenty of previous discussion on this topic. Search for "NLGI 0" or "penrite" or "corn head",

Expensive, hard-to-get Penrite is rated NLGI 00. Search on Amazon for "00 grease" and you'll find alternatives under $20 in quart bottles with squirt tops. In my experience one bottle of Penrite is not quite enough to fill the box.

I'm using John Deere Corn Head grease (next grade stiffer NLGI 0) which is easy to input with a grease gun with injector - if you have those things. It has the consistency of mustard so is less likely to leak, but has the disadvantage of not being drainable. The injector makes it easy to fill the box from the bottom, pushing the air out the opening.

Whatever you use, make sure you operate the steering lock-to-lock a few times during the process or the box won't be completely filled.

screenshot.1230.jpg
 
Almost anything should be good for the worm gears, and maybe the bearings, but how does a super-thick grease get down through the bronze bush, the biggest wear point in a box? I almost don't mind a little oozing out the bottom since it means the bush and lower rocker are getting lubricated.
 
In the process of restoring a 1960 BT7 I have read many threads on this subject.
Just installed the steering box yesterday. So I am wondering where does the steering box most usually leak from?
The end cover gasket? the olive? the top cover gasket? the seal?
I rebuilt the steering box then filled it with 90W GL4 as per the shop manual.
I let it set for a week and no leaks so i installed it.
as I was finishing up it occured to me that the box sits buy the radiator.
Perhaps heat from the radiator causes the fluid to expand and it gets forced out of the box.
thoughts?
 
In my experience, the most common point for leaking is the bottom seal, as it's at a wear point. If the bush is worn the rocker shaft will wiggle and that accelerates the wear. The end cover can leak as well, although properly set up it shouldn't; same with the compression fitting (olive). The top cover won't leak, unless it's warped, with a good gasket and, if you like, your favorite gasket sealant (Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket seems to be the choice of the pros).

If you fill to the bottom of the filler hole, you still have plenty of room for heat expansion: there is no seal so the oil can expand up the steering shaft tube. Confession: I was filling a dry box once with the front-end elevated and put almost a quart into it before I realized I was filling up the steering tube.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Almost anything should be good for the worm gears, and maybe the bearings, but how does a super-thick grease get down through the bronze bush, the biggest wear point in a box? I almost don't mind a little oozing out the bottom since it means the bush and lower rocker are getting lubricated.
Click to expand...

Bob, what super-thick grease are you referring to?

Penrite is like honey; Corn Head is like mustard or applesauce.
 
Hard to find One That NO Leaks- BUT filling all around the steering BOX-and don't go to solid state in winter
PENRITE can be the right compromise- Gear oil 90W and grease MIXTURE??MAIONESE??
 
Bob,

When considering the use of Corn Head Grease, consider the purpose for which it is being selected. If the steering box is not leaking, the use of the originally specified Gear Oil (90w@ above 10F/80W@ below 10F) should be considered. Keep in mind that John Deere Corn Head Grease was formulated to service slow speed high pressure gear cases (as our steering box) at temperatures ranging from -30F to 330F. Although this is an NLGI 0 rated grease, its very soft with a consistency of Brown Mustard (as Steve indicated) and this structural difference from straight gear oil is the reason for it eliminating leakage. Although different in structure to gear oil, I have been told that it is fluid enough to fill all voids in the box and allow full penetration during slow gear movements.

Your choice, however, in steering box lubricantion and that of all other Healey components, today's selection is on a best guess effort. Even gear oil has changed in formulation and structure from that which was originally evaluated for specification in the manual.

Just my thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)​
 
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I've got almost 200K miles on my BJ8's box using gear oil (85W-90 or whatever's handy); I'm not convinced that something with the consistency of mustard--see photo--can get through the small channels in the bushing to lube the bushing and rocker shaft. Glad it works for some people; the minimal miles most people drive their Healeys probably makes it a non-issue.

mustard.JPG
 
Slight twist to the topic here, hope you don't mind. I am rebuilding a BN1 and have bought Penrite for the box which I am about to install into the inner bodywork. What I would like to know is this: Do I have to have the stator tube installed before I fill the box with Penrite? I fear the answer is obvious but I wanted to check as if I have to have the stator tube in then I need to have the steering wheel permanently fitted and I don't want to do that yet. Additionally should I use Penrite on the idler as well?
 
I think a lot of people have a misunderstanding of how Corn Head grease works. It thins out to a thick oil consistency when the unit it is in is working whether it is a corn head gearbox or a steering box.
When it's not being worked it thickens back up. Here is a link to a John Deere video that explains how it works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zNhli-J0Gk
I just bought some to put in my steering idler once I'm finished rebuilding it.

Cheers

Rick
'64 BJ8 P1
 
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